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Feline Fun Time & Litterbox Maintenance Service

Are you too tired to play with your full of energy feline at the end of your work day?

Is your Kitty a bit overweight from lack of exercise?

HATE CLEANING LITTERBOXES ??

WE CAN HELP !!

 

Daily exercise and scooping of litterboxes is a must for healthy and happy kitties.  If it is a chore that you just hate doing or do not have time to do, please have us do it for you.

 

Feline Fun Time & Litterbox Maintenance

We can come Monday – Friday or seven days a week and scoop your litter box for you, give fresh food, water and some loving fun attention to your kitties while you are at work, home or vacation. Veterinarians recommend daily exercise and litter boxes scooped once per day, ideally twice per day. Clean litter boxes may help prevent elimination problems around your home. No more litter box duty for you, let us do it for you.

Daily exercise for your kitties can help them burn off excess energy, help them sleep through the night (are they waking you up), helps keep their joints limber, helps them to lose weight (just like us), helps keep their hearts healthy.  We can play with their favorite toys, we can even brush them if we have time.

Prices depend on number of pets, time needed, travel time, etc. Please call our office for all prices.

Sign up NOW, call our office at 603-888-8088 or Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website  and login  or click on “New Client” to contact us to sign up your beloved kitties for our valuable Litterbox Maintenance service.

Here are a few of our articles on your kitty and litterboxes

Litterbox Tips by Gus Bennett

Litterbox Problems and Soultions by Gus Bennett

 

 

About the Owner/Author

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

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Litterbox Problems and Solutions by Gus Bennett

Gus Bennett By Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

Gus Bennett
By Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

Help and

Understanding

for

Litterbox

   Problems  

 

Authors, Gus Bennett and Dorinne Whynott,

Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

 

Hi, I am Gus Bennett. 

I am going to try to give you some insight into why we cats may stop using our litterbox ( of course, if you would rather learn more about cute me, click Gus Bennett).

As you read this, you may think that cats are very delicate creatures who start having problems at the slightest provocation, this really is the farthest from the truth.  The majority of cats never have a problem and live long happy healthy lives.  If you are experiencing a problem with your cat going outside the litterbox, these are some ideas that may be the problem.  We are trying to find out why your cat may be choosing to go outside of the preferred litterbox.  The hard part is the why.  If you can find the why, the solution becomes easier.

Remember, I am here to help you understand all things cat!  This is a long article and I will touch on many things. 

Here is some general feline information –

We are highly trainable…did you know that?  Many people think if we have bad habits, they have to live with it….but that is simply not true.  My Mom has taught me where I can go and where I can’t.  I am definitely not allowed on tables or counters.  We learn differently from dogs for the most part, meaning we learn with lots of routine, consistency  and praise.  We have long memories, which is good for when we were wild.  If something scared us or was life threatening, we remembered that for survival, however if we learn bad habits that memory takes a bit to re-train (Understanding Cat Behavior). So, be patient with us.  If you yell or spank us, it will only make us afraid, anxious and avoid you.  If we are constantly in fear or anxiety, bad habits form.  

Cats do not respond well to putting our noses in urine/defecation accidents around the house (uuuggghh, that is simply disgusting).  These procedures produce cats that are frightened of the reprimanding person.  Cats may become even more stressed and upset, thereby exacerbating the bathroom problem.  Even if you yell at the cat and then place the cat in the litterbox, the cat may develop an aversion to the litterbox, simply because it associates the litterbox with reprimand. 

Each cat is completely unique and different as snowflakes and people.  One cat may find a particular cat toy fun and enjoyable, while another cat may find  the same toy boring and walk away.  Can you imagine that there are some cats who do not even like Catnip??  They must be ill that is the best stuff in the world!!

Keep in mind – 

  • We already knows how to use a Litterbox
  • Cats are very clean and prefer to find a place to bury their elimination. 
  • I did not need to be taught by my feline Mom, I just know what to do. 
  • Know what is normal for us
  • If you see accidents outside the litterbox, something is wrong and we are trying to tell you something

It is the last point, I would like to discuss with you today. 

Did you know:

  • Inappropriate elimination by your cat, whether stool or urine is not an  intentional act of malice or revenge
  • Marking and inappropriate elimination by a cat is a form of communication
  • Marking can be urine, feces, cheek glands or scratching
  • Inappropriate elimination can mean that your cat is trying to tell you there is something wrong medically
  • Marking in cat speak can mean this is my area, please do not intrude
  • Marking can be a comforting scent blanket that helps soothe anxiety in a nervous cat
  • Most cats will mark their homes at some point in their lives
  • Territorial marking is a normal behavior of cats, most cats will mark around the house by rubbing our cheeks all over everything in our home, even our Mom!!
  • Both male and female cats mark
  • Both intact and neutered male and female cats mark
  • Cats are very trainable and can be taught what is acceptable or not
  • Because people do not believe the statement above, many cats are removed from their homes for inappropriate elimination without finding out what is wrong and finding an answer. Instead, they are brought to shelters, dropped off on the side of a road or euthanized

For all of our cats’ sake, it is essential to determine the underlying reason to why we are doing things and then find a happy solution. 

So lets, delve into the medicals possibilities first.

  • Bladder Issues
  • Urinary tract infection
  • Bladder crystals
  • Kidney issues
  • Diabetes
  • Hormonal Imbalances
  • Aging
  • Breeding age cats not neutered

All of these possibilities could be the reason why your cat may go to the bathroom outside the litterbox (your vet may find other possible medical issues).  This may be the only way your cat can tell you that something is wrong.  All of the above can happen to any cat at any time.  Make an appointment with your veterinarian.  I would suggest getting a physical, complete blood profile, kidney panel and a urinalysis (your vet may add on other tests, if needed). 

UTIs and Bladder Issues

Two common medical reasons for a cat to stop using the litterbox are a Urinary Tract Infection/Bladder Infection.  During these infections, small amounts of urine are excreted at short intervals.  Urination may be painful, frequent and urgent.  Cats can not always reach the litterbox in time. If they do get to the litterbox, they soon associate any pain with the litterbox. If you have ever had a bladder infection or a UTI, you can certainly sympathize.  It is not fun.

 If an infection is found, they may be treated with antibiotics.  If after treatment, the cat is still having accidents, you may determine that something else is going on or a habit has formed and may need to be addressed. 

Diabetes and Kidney Issues

Your Veterinarian can help to determine if there are other medical problems that may be occurring such as Diabetes or Kidney problems.  These problems may have other symptoms.  It is always a good idea to watch your cat for any signs of different behavior.  Knowing how much your cat is eating or not eating, water intake and how often they urinate or defecate are all important factors to help your veterinarian determine what, if anything is going on. Mood and activity, as well as if there are other symptoms you may see, can be helpful when relaying them to your veterinarian.

Hormonal Imbalance

Your vet may suggest that your cat has a hormonal imbalance.  A prescription to rectify the imbalance may improve the non use of the litterbox.  Your vet may also advise you on other drug therapies.  Ask if the drugs will have any side affects, such as lethargy, etc.  Changing habits may still need to be worked on along with drug therapy, if a habit has formed.

 Crystals

In our house, we have had three cats who were found to have crystals through a urinalysis – Ricky, Desilu and Felice.  Two of the cats do mark for other reasons, however, the problem may have started when they had crystals.  Since marking can be soothing to a cat, they continued (the rest of us, were appalled at this). Crystals form in some cats due to dehydration which results in super concentrated urine in cats who may be predisposed.  Severe symptoms can result in blockage (bladder stones can also create a blockage) which can be fatal if not treated immediately.

Senile/Aging Cat 

Also, talk to your vet about the “Senile Cat“.  These are cats that have a long history of being extremely clean cats but with aging and the physiological body changes that may go with that aging, may lead to loss of bladder control and/or loss of bowel control.  This does not happen with all aging cats.  If it does happen, little can be done.  Just as it happens in humans, we need to understand that the cat has little to no control over this aging process.  We need to prevent damage and make the cat as comfortable as possible in his/her old age.  The cat is usually as upset as you are. 

When you can not supervise, You can place the cat in a confined area, such as a bathroom, where it is easy to clean, with a litterbox, and make the cat comfortable with food, water and a bed.  Another age consideration, if your cat is getting old, may be they are having a hard time getting to the litterbox that is all the way upstairs or all the way downstairs.  Maybe placing the litterbox in an easier place for the old cat is all that is needed. Make sure to give your “old cat” lots of love and attention and do not let them spend too much time alone.

Intact Male or Female

Another possibility, is a cat that is not neutered. Intact males and females instinctually mark their territories to tell other cats to stay out, this is my area.  Hormones released in the urine also tell other cats, they aready to mate.

All pets that are not being shown in breed shows for breeding should be neutered (more information on Neutering).  Neutering cuts down on the immense over population resulting in many innocent pets being euthanized every day.  Neutering also lessens the chances of medical problems that may arise later in life (cancer of the uterus, ovaries, prostate and testicles).  Also, a pregnant queen may develop life threatening pyometria.  Neutering can also help with many behavioral problems (seeking other intact mates, fighting, etc.), including the problem of spraying in both male and female cats.

 

Health Problems Found 

If it comes back that your cat has any of the above.  Your vet will give you appropriate help to get your cat back to healthy.  Once back to healthy, also consider diet and water intake in another blog article, I wrote, Feeding Cats by Gus Bennett.  Many of the  above health issues in many cats (not all, kidney disease progresses for example)  can be lessened or eliminated with a diet of moist/raw food and extra water intake.

Healthy Pet, Behavior Issue

If the tests come back your cat is healthy, then we are looking at a possible behavior issue. 

So, what are some reasons why we cats may stop using our beloved litterbox

  • Dirty litterbox
  • Box too small
  • Covered litterbox
  • Litterbox location too busy
  • Litterbox location too noisy
  • Litter is not to our liking (too smelly, too rough on our feet, etc.)
  • The other cat won’t let me use the litterbox
  • Not enough litter boxes
  • I couldn’t make it down two flights of stairs in time
  • I got scared one time while in my box
  • being bullied by another cat or dog causing fear/anxiety
  • misteatment by kids or adults causing fear/anxiety
  • My litterbox is too close to my food and water
  • Any Negative Association to the litterbox will make even the most fastidious cat change

Please read my blog article, Litter Box Tips by Gus Bennett  to further understand the above.  

 Here are a few more reasons 

  • There are cats marking our house outside and I need to let them know this is my area inside

If your cat is seeing and smelling other cats outside.  They may become very anxious and feel the need to let those outside cats know this area is all theirs.  You may see urine around doors and windows inside from your cats and outside from the neighbors cats (yes, most neighbors are not happy with your pets in their yard).  You may need to use cat repellants outside around your home (never, ever place any poison or anything harmful to an animal).  There is a product called The Contech Scarecrow.  You hook it up to your hose and it has a motion sensor, once it detects motion it will spray water!!!  Careful, you may forget it is on!  This is very scary to a cat ( or dogs, bears, deer, other humans!).  After a few times, most cats will probably stay away.  My Mom has actually gone out and clapped her hands and yelled and used a squirt bottle of water to scare cats out of our yard.  She looks pretty funny but it did worked (worked with the bears as well, yes, I said bears….she used banging pots and pans for them).  We really should catch my Mom doing this on video!!

  •  Cats love routine and hate change

My Mom is like that, too.  However, she is a believer in Desensitization (more about this below) , so she does change things up.  Like the time we eat.  We never bother her first thing in the morning because she never feeds us first thing.  She has her coffee, etc.  We get fed around 9am mostly, but it could be 8am, 11am.  We just wait until we see her get out our food dishes.  Why does she do this, well one is, she never wanted us cats, in her face at 4am in the morning waking her up, but the other is that she believes that whenever the routine is changed on an animal that never has the routine changed, it causes stress.  So, we are used to whenever. 

  • Upset or Change. 

If you have had a change in the house, a cat will show it is stressed to you, by not using the litterbox.  Not all cats react to change by not using the litterbox, but some do.  Check to see if change could be a factor in your cat’s behavior.

  • An upset/trauma to a cat could be….. 

An upset to a cat could be going to the veterinarian, surgery, a new schedule (new times going to work, coming home, new feeding times, etc.), moving food dishes, moving the litterbox, moving furniture, moving to a new home, owners go on vacation, a baby arrives, a new person moves in (sometimes cats will go to the bathroom on an item that is owned by a new person, marking that item as their own, this makes the cat feel better, especially if that person does not like the cat), a person leaves the home, a new pet arrives (This could be a dog, a cat or any other pet.  Your cat may mark territory, to show the new pet, areas that are off limits.  Off limit areas could be your cat’s bed or your bed where your cat always sleeps).  These are a few examples, there are many other things that may be upsetting to your cat.

  •  When making any changes in your home

Try to make the change gradual and in stages.  For example, if you are moving the litterbox to another room, move the litterbox a few feet every couple of days, until you get to the preferred spot.  Cats do better with gradual change.  At times, the cat may go back to the old spot to go to the bathroom, if this happens leave the litterbox in the new area, but get a second litterbox and place it in the old area and try to make the move gradually again.

  • New Addition to your home 

With a new person or pet coming into the house, the key again is gradual.  You may need to keep the cat confined away from the new person , new person’s belongings, and new pets for quite awhile until the cat gets use to the new addition.  Another type of addition is a new cat in the neighborhood.  Whether an outside cat or a cat that stays in (inside cats see new cats through windows, and still perceive them as a change to the environment, simply close curtains or doors to prevent your cat from seeing the new outside cat-see section above), your cat may be upset by this addition and mark territory.  Watch your cat to determine if this is the cause.

Introducing a new family member to your cat

Introducing a new cat to your Cat

Introducing your cat to a new dog

Preparing your cat for a new baby

 

  • Changing Litter 

Another upset or change in the home, could be simply a change in the type and brand of litter you use in the litterbox.  Some cats are very sensitive and do not take to change easily.  If it is a litter change, simply try changing back to the old type of litter or provide two or three litterboxes with different litter in each to determine which litter your cat likes.  Keep in mind the litterbox and litter are for your CAT not You.  Use what your cat prefers.

  • I live with three markers 

We have three cats that are markers in our home, Danny, Desilu and Felice.  My Mom believes that all three are caused by an upset or change.  For Danny, he started when Rachelle moved out of our house, you see, Danny was Rachelle’s cat.  He loved her from the first day he laid eyes on her.  Whenever, she is home, he is inseparable from her.  He was and continues to miss her.  In his situation, all we can do is to give him as much love and attention as we can (I try not to pounce on him, even though I really want to).  Unfortunately, Rachelle does not live in an apartment that allows pets. 

 Desilu and Felice are our other two sprayers.  They are picked on by the bigger boys and become anxious.  My Mom protects them from us boys, but the girls are anxious still because we can be sneaky. 

 So Danny, Desilu and Felice are confined to the cat room (yes, we have our own room, aren’t we lucky!!) .  They can not have the run of the house, unsupervised.  In the cat room, none of them spray or go outside of the litterbox.  They do go outside in our yard, where they are fenced trained (read our blog article 2 ways to keep your cats safe outside).  They are loved and handled every day (This is the most important thing in confinement).  At night, to de-stress them more and to allow all the cats in the cat room, so there is no territoriality, these three are confined in their own huge crate, with their own litterbox, water, food and bed. 

 My Mom has been doing this with them now for the past 5 years and it works for us perfectly.  Your solution may be different. 

 

 This is a good time to talk about desensitization for cats.  Some people talk about desensitization alot with dogs but it makes sense to talk about it with cats (as well as people, too).  The idea is to change how we, as a cat, feel about a particular thing – in other words to create a positive or tolerant feeling from a negative/stressful feeling. 

By desensitization, I mean that whatever a person, cat or dog is not use to, and that thing upsets that person, cat or dog, they are sensitive to it.  If the sensitive person, cat or dog has to deal with the thing that makes them upset at one time or another, the sensitive person, cat or dog becomes very stressed.  Therefore, to relieve stress and upset for the sensitive person, cat or dog, they need to become desensitized to the thing that is upsetting.  Whew, that was a mouthful!!

 To desensitize, you would have the sensitive person/pet be exposed to the upset, over and over again until the sensitive person/pet, no longer seems to be upset about it.  This must be done in a slow, gradual, safe, positive way to work.  An example would be, the cat/dog who hates to have their paws touched (or nails clipped).  You would, many times a day, find opportunities to touch the pets’ paws (while watching TV, while the cat lay in your lap), gently praising until the pet is relaxed and simply lets you touch their paws with no reaction.  This does not always work in EVERY sensitive situation, but does help the majority.  Again, I cannot stress enough that this must be done in a loving, non-stressful, non-scary positive way to work well.

 Here are a few things my Mom changes frequently.  We find it rather fun now.

  • Feeding times
  • Furniture moved in various rooms
  • Litterboxes moved here and there
  • Various animals coming and going
    • fostering animals
    • rehabilitating orphaned wildlife
    • visiting pets

 You just never know what she is going to do. 

  

 Cats can become frustrated and anxious for various reasons,

  • not enough exercise
  • no fresh air, no access to windows
  • always being picked on by others
  • no attention
  • stress in homes (arguments, spouses not getting along)
  • kids always running and yelling
  • not being able to get up high and look down (most cats like to feel safe up on things)
  • ABUSE – Abuse can be yelling, rough handling, scaring, over use of a reprimand (squirt bottle, shaker can, etc.) hitting (any physical harm), constant fear, keeping in a small cage constantly, neglect (not enough food, water, love or medical care), hoarding, etc.

ABUSE can be directed at the animal or anyone in the home.  As with a person (man, woman, or child), just witnessing and being in this highly volatile home environment, can make any animal highly stressed.

 ABUSE needs to cease immediately.  If you live in a home where the pet is being abused, the removal of the abused victim to an animal shelter would be the best choice. 

For everything else, try to find solutions for your cat’s frustrations/anxieties.  Pets need to communicate to us and sometimes cats must do drastic things, like going to the bathroom on the living room carpet, to get us to hear them.  Try playing with your cat more, make a point to give more attention or train your cat on a harness and leash and let him/her get some fresh air and sunshine. 

  •  Importance of Play

All cats should have a minimum of 15 minutes per day of playtime in a safe fun environment.  Video: My Cat from Hell, Jackson Galaxy, How to play with your cat

Especially, if your cat is

  • alone
  • obese
  • hides
  • young and lives with a senior cat

 I am opposed to cats that are let outside, unsupervised.  Many cats that are let outside face a variety of unpleasant and sometimes fatal experiences.  Outside unsupervised cats live on average, 2/3 LESS in years than cats that are kept inside.  According to animal welfare organizations, the average lifespan of a healthy cat kept inside can be 18-20 years.  An average lifespan of a cat that is allowed to roam freely outside unsupervised is 6 years.  BUT you say, your cat lived to be 10 outside!!! Your cat, my friend was incredibly lucky.  Some that are unlucky only live afew days or weeks….

 Outside cats:

  • are more susceptible to diseases (Rabies, FIP, Feline AIDS, and others),
  • cost more in medical bills,
  • have high risk of being hit by cars,
  • have people shooting at them,
  • have people/kids throwing rocks at them,
  • have people who poison them (neighbors)
  • have dogs chasing them,
  • have raccoons, fishers, coyotes and foxes chasing them and if hungry, killing them for food,
  • have kids getting them high on drugs (which usually kills )
  • use firecrackers on them (which disfigures, mames and kills)
  • have people steal them to train dogs for dog fighting or greyhound racing,
  • have people steal them for experimentation laboratories. 
  • And more gruesome things ca happen to them

Oh please, this is awful to think of cats like me going through all of that.

 Those are just a few things, my Mom has witnessed in her decades of being in the animal welfare field.  If you want your cat to go out, keep him/her safe, use a harness and leash, under your supervision. Check out the blog – 2 Ways to Keep Cats Safe Outside

If you love your cat, protect your cat, keep them safe inside (and safe under supervision outside).

 So, you have come to the conclusion, It is a Habit, now what?

 If your cat has been going to the bathroom around the house and continually not using the litterbox for quite a period of time, your cat may have formed a habit.  Breaking this habit can be frustrating and hard for the owner, but with persistence, can be accomplished or  Come up with a solution you and your cat can happily live with.

  •  First you must find all soiled locations in your home and clean thoroughly

 The first step is to thoroughly clean the house.  There must be no odors to lure the cat back to previous bathroom spots.  Carpet is the worst thing to ever have in a home if you have men, kids or pets (that’s what my Mom says).  Carpeting is impossible to ever keep 100% clean.  Have you ever pulled up a carpet and saw underneath?? Yuck!!

Carpeting is the worst if you have a pet accident because it soaks way down into the backing and wood and virtually never goes away.  Carpet is the worst floor covering, try large area rugs.  Area rugs can be cleaned easier and replaced, when needed.

 So, how do you find all the pet accidents…..  Black Light.  You need to find a really good black light; it will fluoresce any bodily fluid.  It is best done at night with NO lights on.  So, if any one has spilled milk, or the dog peed on the carpet or whatever, you will see it (it can be pretty shocking). 

Cats tend to spray walls about 8 inches or so up from the floor or in a corner or against the baseboard.  Look in closets, behind furniture, if large enough for a cat to go behind.  Cat urine has a distinct smell, especially if you have an unneutered cat or a cat who is dehydrated  (urine will be super concentrated and odiferous). 

 Ask your veterinarian for some products that can help in eliminating pet bathroom odors in carpets, upholstery, wood, etc.  A vinegar and water solution sometimes work well to mask odors but what you want is a product that will eliminate the odor all together.  DO NOT use Lysol products, they can be poisonous.  DO NOT use ammonia or ammonia-based products.  Ammonia is a constituent (an essential part) of urine.  By using ammonia, you will be spreading the odor around the house, making the house smell like one huge litterbox to us cats!! 

 My Mom uses a product called XO.  She likes it the best and she has tried many things.  XO is safe to use in your laundry, can be used on almost everything (test a small spot to be sure), furniture, curtains, bedding.  When you spray it, there is an odor (Mom thinks it smells like vomit, haha) but after about 15-20 minutes when it is dry, you should smell nothing. XO is safe enough to spray directly in the litterbox as well.  You can ask lots of people what they have found to work for them and get more ideas.  Buy XO on Amazon

  •  Once you find the areas and clean them, now what?
    •  Put a litterbox where they were going – If your cat is just using one spot in your home, if possible try placing a litterbox on that spot.  If your cat starts to use the litterbox in that spot, gradually move the litterbox back to where you want it. 
    • Prevent the cat from going to that area.  Section the area off, or close doors to rooms affected, so that the cat can’t go there. 
    • Use a non-toxic cat repellant or consistently startling the cat with a loud noise (such as a shaker can), as it nears the area, is sufficient. 
    • Change the significance of that area from a bathroom area to a feeding area.  Simply place food and water bowls in the spot.  Sometimes even a handful of treats every day in that area may work. 
    • Put catnip on the area after the area is thoroughly cleaned. 
    • Change the surface of the area may deter the cat from going to the bathroom there. 
      • For example, place heavy plastic over carpeting,
      • sink and bathtub surfaces can be kept covered with an inch of water,
      • Aluminum foil (most cats do not like the sound or feel) can be placed on couches,
      • plastic runners at Home Depot/Lowes with the knob side up (uncomfortable on most paws),
      • double sided tape 

 

  • If you find your cat is marking just one or two places

 My Mom uses the scariest thing ever.  It is a product called Stay Away .  It is a can of compressed air with a motion sensor.  If it detects motion, it beeps a warning, then WHOOOOSHH.  Scares the heck out of anyone!!! My Mom sets it off more than me!  She also uses this keep me from things that are enticing to me, like Christmas trees or special plants, etc.  A similar product is Ssscat.  Mom likes Stay Away better because it has a beep warning first and Ssscat does not.  After a while, you can just switch to the beep and your cat will get out quick.  No need to keep buying more cans of their compressed air.

 There is also a product called Scat Mat.  This is a mat that is plugged in and when a cat steps on it, they get a very mild shock. It doesn’t hurt but boy, a cat will be off in a flash.

  •   If your cat find plants a better litterbox

 Maybe your cat is liking dirt more than litter, if they are constantly going in your plants.  Try filling a litter box with half dirt and half litter.  If that works, over the next month or two, you can put less and less dirt.  Unfortunately, dirt is not easily scooped and does not help at all with odor.   To deter from plants, you can use:

  • Stay Away
  • Put Aluminum foil over the dirt,
  • Cut a piece of hardware cloth/fencing (holes about ¼ to ½ inch)  to fit in the pot. 
  • Put about a half inch of rocks. 

Unfortunately, if they have gone in the pot, it will smell, if it is warm enough, take the pot outside and really drench the soil.  Do this 3-4 times in hopes of getting every bit of urine and smell out of the pot.  Also, cat urine may be detrimental to your plants.

  •   If your cat is still marking

Confinement can be another solution.  Warning – if you do this, you MUST give daily attention

Confine the cat to a small area, such as an unused bedroom (if possible, remove bed or place mattress in a waterproof cover), a bathroom, or a kennel used for pets on airlines (kennel must be big enough for a litterbox, food, water and a bed).  Your cat is only let out of confinement under constant supervision for loving attention and exercise (you must not keep them in a kennel for more then 8-10 hours at night, more is not advisable).  By doing this, you are creating a smaller environment for the cat , thereby, cutting down on the areas he/she has to soil.  Plus, you are eliminating the choice for your cat to go to the preferred area in your house and go to the bathroom, thus interrupting the habit. 

Confinement will also teach the cat to start using the litterbox, thereby, breaking the habit of not using the litterbox and not perpetuating their habit of frequenting the areas they have soiled around the house.  Most pets do not like to go to the bathroom and then have to be near it.  When given the freedom of your home, they can go to the bathroom anywhere and then go somewhere else, not having to look at or be near what they have done.  By making the cat’s environment considerably smaller, you have given that pet less choice as to where they will go to the bathroom.  Most will start to use the litterbox the day that they are confined.  Do not think that your pet has broken the habit in one day.  Be patient, the habit took a while to form and will take time to rectify, probably months.  If they are getting more freedom after awhile and you notice a problem (you must be diligently looking), you must start over.

Your resentment lessens – Another good thing created by confining your cat is that your resentment goes down, thereby reducing the stress felt by your cat through you.  I am sure, after cleaning up your cat’s messes for awhile, you were feeling pretty badly towards your cat.  Some owners take their pets messes personally, in that they think their pet does not love them anymore.  Generally speaking, your cat still loves you, they have just formed a bad habit that needs to be corrected once you find out WHY they started in the first place.

Also, try a litter additive to the litterbox.  It will help your cat get back to being attracted to the litterbox for elimination. 

  •  You can try medications

My Mom has tried a few medications along with Prozac.  Yes, they have Prozac for kitties.  The medications do work for a while but in our cases, the affects did wear off after a year.  Even though the Prozac worked and did eventually wear off, my Mom really did not like how it made Desilu and Felice act.  Even on the lowest does of 1/8 of a tablet, Desilu would go out in our yard and just zone out.  She never played anymore, she just slept.  It was not that bad for Felice, but if you knew her, she is very busy and curious.  On the Prozac, she just kind of walked around, not really happy.

However, many cats do pretty good. My Mom says we have a few clients who have cats on Prozac and it is working well for them.  If you are really frustrated with the problem and you can not figure out why your cat is soiling around the house and you have tried everything to change the environment to keep your cat feeling safe, loved, getting plenty of good quality love attention and play.  Maybe Prozac is a good choice for you.

So, let’s recap –

  • Make sure they are healthy
  • Remember to Examine the WHY
    • Check litterbox size, clean, location, litter
    • Is your cat anxious, scared, worried
    • Does anyone yell at them, abuse them
    • Do children yell or run at them, scare them
    • Do dogs bark and harass them
    • anything changed in the house (new, missing)

 And the most important issues

  • Are you giving them enough attention
  • Are you giving them fun play time every day
  • Do you have fun stimulating Toys
  • Do you have areas where your cat is allowed up high (see My Cat From Hell to find out why this is important)
  • Do you brush or pet your cat daily, this de-stresses them AND you
  • Does your cat feel loved by the entire family – just like you, they want to be loved and belong

 Attention and playtime are the two things that will help in many situations.  

  Most cats LOVE the feather on a stick toy.  I know I do!!

 

  • What I would NOT suggest doing

Whether you think your cat is doing this because they are unhappy with you (this is definitely not the reason if you are providing a safe, loving home) or you just do not want to take the time to fix the problem.  The above three things are NOT the solution.  There are so many things that could happen as I stated before – starvation, hit by a car, tortured, poisoned, attacked by other animals,  and more. 

If you no longer want to care for your cat, please bring them to a shelter.  Make sure you explain, what is going on, so that they can find the right home to help your cat.  NEVER withhold any information.  Worse case scenario, your cat will be humanely euthanized. Euthanasia sounds awful but it is much better then being hurt by someone and dieing slow and alone…..

  A great show to watch and get a lot of great ideas from, is Animal Planet’s “My Cat From Hell”  The cat behaviorist is Jackson Galaxy and he is quite informative.  He has many shows that deal with urination and aggressive problems.  My Mom has learned a few great ideas from this show.  Jackson has also authored a few books, you may want to check them out.  I LOVE watching all the cats on TV and when they talk, I listen!!

 As with people, it will take time with your cat, there maybe relapses but most pets will try to do the right thing.  They really do want our love, affection and approval.  So, please try to understand your pet, read these suggested reasons and solutions a few times, be patient, be consistent, and above all, love your pet.  They are counting on you.

Signing off until next time,

Gus Bennett

 

 

About the Owner/Author

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

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Litter Box Tips by Gus Bennett

Gus Bennett

What Every Cat

wants you

to know about

Litterboxes 

Authors, Gus Bennett and Dorinne Whynott,

Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

 

Hi, I am Gus Bennett,

Today, I want you to understand what cats need you to know about litterboxes (but if you want to know more about me, Click Gus Bennett)!!!

Anyway, I am here to help you understand all things cat! 

Here is some general cat information

We are highly trainable…did you know that?  Many people think that if a cat has bad traits they just have to live with it.….but that is simply not true.  Here is an article about training cats by the ASPCA and Understanding & Training Your Cat (lots of other training tips here too).

My Mom has taught me where I can go and where I can’t.  I am definitely not allowed on tables or counters.  We learn differently from dogs for the most part, meaning we learn with lots of routine, consistency  and praise.  We have long memories, which is good for when we were wild.  If something scared us or was life threatening, we remembered that for survival, however if we learn bad habits that memory takes a bit to re-train. So, be patient with us.  If you yell or spank us, it will only make us afraid, anxious and avoid you.  If we are constantly in fear or have anxiety/stress, bad habits form.  Each cat is completely, unique and different as snowflakes and people.  One cat may find a particular cat toy fun and enjoyable, while another cat may find  the same toy boring and walk away.  Can you imagine that there are some cats who do not even like Catnip??  They must be ill, that is the best stuff in the world!!

More interesting things: 

  • We already knows how to use a Litterbox
  • Cats are very clean and prefer to find a place to bury their elimination. 
  • I did not need to be taught by my feline Mom, I just know what to do. 
  • Know what is normal for us
  • If you see accidents outside the litterbox, something is wrong and we are trying to tell you something

From the time I was 4 weeks old, it was normal for me to seek an area that is easy for me to cover my, you know what (unless you are like my brother, Ricky, who hops in, goes and hops out.  Ugggh, it smells and we get sick and tired of covering it for him!!)  

Most cats prefer loose sandy material but you can set up 3-4 litterboxes with a different type of litter to find what works best for you AND your cat.  Your cat will obviously use what they like best the most.  If you are lucky, your cat won’t be so picky.  It is important for most cats to have just the right stuff in the right location.

Good Litterbox choices and cleanliness will prevent most problems.

Here are a few steps to help.

Step One – Choosing a box

  • Please make sure the litter box is large enough

Many litterboxes out in the market are just too small, especially if you buy them when we are kittens.   Many cats get all four feet in the litterbox, but their butt is hanging out!! How embarrassing is that!!

Litterboxes  should be twice as big as we are, minimum, in my Mom’s opinion.  My Mom likes to use the Rubbermaid type storage containers, minimum 2 feet long by 18 inches wide by 12 inches high.  My Mom and I prefer larger boxes.  That way we can get in, move around for just the right spot. 

  • Why so high, do you ask….

Some cats (me, me, me)  like to dig, dig, dig.  This size gives us the best opportunity without getting litter all outside the container.  Older cats may have a hard time squatting and these higher sides keep everything inside.  Also, some cats like to shake litter off of their paws.  It won’t stop all the litter flying around but does help a lot.  Mom also has rugs right next to our litterboxes to catch most of the litter still on our paws (these rugs are what most people use at your front door to catch the dirt when people come in).

  • As we age, you may need an adjustment

Even though high sides really do help keep everything inside the litterbox, as we age, these high sides may make it hard for us to get in. We may have a hard time jumping and climbing due to arthritis, you may need to make an adjustment so we can get in and out.  A small step stool may help.  Just make sure it is VERY sturdy, if I jump and it moves and scares me, I may not go back.  Some people like to cut a “u” shape in the plastic on one side, giving easier access to get in and out.  Just be careful, the cut plastic edges can be sharp.  Cover the cut plastic with duct tape or something sturdy so no sharp edges are exposed.  You may need to replace the tape covering as time goes on.  Mom just uses a step stool because it is easy to clean and move around but still sturdy.  She thinks cutting the plastic makes it weak. 

  • To cover or not to cover, that is the question

Most cats prefer litterboxes WITHOUT any covers.  If you have a cat that uses a covered litterbox, consider yourself lucky.  Covered litterboxes trap odors inside, making it very unpleasant for our sensitive noses.  If you notice any accidents outside of a covered litterbox, uncover it.  If that doesn’t help and you are still seeing accidents, your cat is trying to tell you something.  Keep in mind, that covering the litterbox makes it pleasant for you so you do not have to see anything.  However, covering the box makes it unpleasant for us and may make us go elsewhere.  Remember, the litterbox and litter are for us.  You want to make it so we WANT to go there. 

 

Step Two – What about Litter

  • How much litter should be in a box? 

My Mom uses one 40# tub of litter in one litterbox.  Did I mention, we, errrr……I really like to dig!!   But I have two housemates that prefer just about an inch or two, so there are a few litterboxes in our house like that.  You will need to find out what your cat prefers.  Just keep in mind, using more litter in a box does NOT mean scoop less.  Scoop a minimum of once a day for all litterboxes in your house.  If you can scoop twice, even better.  Like many cats, my sister, Desilu, will not use any box if there is one tiny anything in it.  We call her the Clean Queen!!

  • What kind of litter

My Mom uses a clumping sandy type of litter for multiple cats.  It is a little dusty but try to find one that is not too dusty, it is really not good for humans or cats to breathe too much.  Some litter companies have added baking soda to market it as better odor control – these are VERY dusty, scooping daily is better and more healthy for your cat.  Most cats prefer soft fine litter but you can experiment with 3-4 litterboxes filled with 3-4 different litters.  The most important part is what YOUR cat prefers, not you.  The more they love their litter, the more they will use it and not go elsewhere.

  • Scented or not scented

We have a keen sense of smell and would prefer to not have it smell like flowers or anything else.  If you are worried about litterbox smelling your home, scented litter, room fresheners and strong cleaners will not help and usually drive us to go elsewhere.  Keeping the litterbox clean is all we need and is your best bet to keeping us from forming bad litterbox habits.  

 

Step Three – All things litterbox

  • My litterbox should be so clean, you wouldn’t mind using it!!

A clean litterbox is cat heaven!! Cats are really very clean creatures.  If my litterbox is dirty, you are asking for a problem.  Dirty litterboxes are one of the main reasons cats go elsewhere.  Scooping all feces and urine at least once a day is essential, twice would even be better.  I know, I know, I said that before.  It really is one of the most important factors.  Change the entire box by dumping all litter once a month or once every other month.  If there is a mild odor after you scoop, it is time to change it entirely.

  • Scooping

My Mom has 10 litterboxes for 9 cats.  She has found the fastest and easiest way to scoop a large box, is to tip it up on one side so all the litter goes to one side, then sift through little by little.  It literally takes less than 15 minutes to do all TEN huge litterboxes around the house.  Not everyone has that many litterboxes, so it should only take you a few minutes each day to keep 2-3 litterboxes clean.  My Mom has found that if litterboxes are scooped 1-2 times per day, it is so much quicker.  If you skip just one day, it really does take much longer because dirty litter really gets stuck and you end up doing a lot of needless scraping to get all the dirty litter. 

  • Scoops

To make life easy, get the right tool for the job.  So many people think slotted spoons make good litter scoops – NOT.  A good litter scoop is made of a very sturdy plastic or metal, has a flat bottom for scraping.  The holes should be large enough for litter to go through but not urine balls, or feces.  The scoop part should be 6-8 inches wide.  A great litter scoop will make scooping large litterboxes a snap. 

  • What to scoop into

My Mom uses a small wastebasket that grocery bags fit into nicely.  One bag per scooping expedition!!  Recycle those bags!

  • Where to put all the dirty litter

Once bagged up, my Mom throws in the trash for pickup.  Working in the animal field for a long time, she has seen people flush cat waste down toilets, also litter that claims to be flushable and have seen both cause plumbing problems.  So, no flushing ANY litter here. 

  •  Washing litterboxes

Don’t make your cat go in a litterbox with dried on feces or urine all over the sides and bottom, would you like that on your toilet?  Every time you dump the dirty litter, before replacing with clean litter, wash the box and dry completely so that the new litter does not absorb any water.  You can use just very hot water and a scrub brush or use a mild detergent like Dawn and rinse completely.  Do not use any harsh chemicals that can be harmful to your cat ( Lysol is very harmful and should never be used).  My Mom washes our Litterboxes in the tub during the winter months and out in the yard to dry in the sun in the warmer months.  She suggests placing a wire mesh drain catcher in the tub drain so nothing goes down the tub drain (never let litter down your drain, remember we talked about plumbing problems with flushing litter).  Never use ammonia.  Urine is ammonia based and it will just amplify the smell to a cat.

  • Keep to a routine, If you go on vacation, make sure the caretaker scoops as often as you do

Whoever you have take care of your kitties while you are away, make sure that they scoop the litterboxes once daily or your kitty may choose to go elsewhere.  This is how a habit starts.  Always make sure of consistent reliable caretakers.  The worst thing you could do, is go away for 2-3 days and leave enough food and water with no one checking and scooping litterboxes.  I won’t even go into all the things that could happen to us curious cats.  Many people will say, they leave their cats all the time and they are fine.  My Mom says, “Yes, they are fine, until they are not!!”  I agree. 

Check out our blog article – Does my Cat Really Need a Cat Sitter?

  • How many Litterboxes should there be?

The rule is one litterbox per cat in your house plus one.  So, if you have 2 cats, you should have a minimum of 3 litterboxes.  If you have more litterboxes, better.  Even if you have one cat, have at least two litterboxes.  Especially, if you have multiple floors.  Many cats, like to use one box for urine, one for feces and the other for both.  Each time they are cleaned, we may mix it up a bit!! Yes, we have to make it interesting, after all we are cats!! 

Okay, I have to tell you my litterbox dance…..it is so much fun.  While my Mom is getting our food ready, we all take turns going to the litterbox and go because we all eat in our crates (more about this in a future blog).  In our cat room (yes, we have our own room, aren’t we the luckiest), we have two huge litterboxes in the closet, doors always open.   The litterboxes are big enough for at least two cats each at a time.  Well, while someone is in each litterbox, I like to jump from one to the other, back and forth, back and forth.  My Mom thinks I am a nut, but it is fun and no one else seems to mind.  Then when the others are done, I hunker down in one then “Boing”, I spring straight up and jump into the other.  Then after a few times of this, I do finally go.  But I have so much fun in the mean time!!  My Mom wants to get this on video!!

  • If I am a cat that goes out do I still need a litterbox

Of course, we are talking about cats that only go out in a safe enclosure or on a harness and leash with supervision for safety. 

The answer to that question is – Yes.  My Mom has trained all of us to be fence trained and we go out in our HUGE yard to run and play.  None of us fo out much in the cold winter.  Even though I go out and stay out for a long time, I prefer to come in and use my litterbox.  Sometimes, I cry at the door to come in and as soon as she opens it, I run right to the litterbox!!  Litterboxes are especially needed at night when everyone is inside. 

If your cat is an inside cat, chances are unlikely.  Toxoplasmosis is an organism that is transmitted through infected raw meat.  It can live in adult humans and cats all their lives without any symptoms.  However, the problem occurs when that adult human becomes pregnant.  These organisms can be harmful to fetuses.  My Mom worked for years in animal welfare, shelters, rescuing cats and dogs and tested negative.  So, it is not very prevalent but if you ever plan to have children, keep these things in mind:

  • Your inside cat must eat infected raw meat, so if you have never fed them infected raw meat and they have never been outside eating infected mice, etc.  chances are very slim to none, you will get it from your cat. 
  • You and your cat can be tested.  
  • Wear gloves when cleaning the litterbox or have someone else do it for you (Professional Pet Sitting Etc. offers this service). 
  • If you garden, wear gloves, these organisms can be in your soil from animals defecating there in the past (chances are you will never know). 
  • Cooking dinner, especially pork, wear gloves whenever handling raw meat. 

Back to litterboxes –

  • Electric or Self Cleaning Litterboxes

These are litterboxes that have an electric eye and when it detects motion and then it detects no motion, it is programmed to rake the litter and put any deposits in a container.  Another one, Cat Genie,  can be hooked up to your plumbing and actually flush cat waste (this uses a special washable litter, that hopefully your cat will like).  My Mom has clients who absolutely love these contraptions.  However, if a speck of litter or dirt gets on the electronic eye, these motors can run and run until they burn themselves out.  Also, if they malfunction and start to work while the cat is still in them, not only can it possibly hurt the cat but it could scare the cat into never using it again. THat would scare the heck out of me!! 

If they are plugged in for electricity or are battery powered, you must make sure they are working in a power outage or battery failure.  Another problem, is the tiny rake like part that combs through the litter sometimes breaks up the urine ball, caking and sticking to the tines, eventually making it one solid bar, raking all the litter in the container.  Those tines are very hard to clean.  One thing I don’t like is only an inch or so of litter can be put in the box!!  If the litter is any higher, the electronic eye thinks it has to clean and clean and clean…..  That means I can’t get in there and dig, dig, dig.  That’s not fun…..

Step Four – Location, Location, Location

  • Litterboxes should not be all together in one place

Make sure that litterboxes are in different locations.  Most cats like privacy, so if another cat is staring them down or if one cat has decided that his area includes all litterboxes, the second cat will go find a better place to go that you may not like. 

  • Convenience

Place litterboxes in convenient places.  At least one litterbox on each floor of your home.  If I have to go and I am upstairs sleeping and the only litterbox is way down in the scary basement……if I am old or very young, I really may not make it.  Also, if I have to go through an obstacle course, sneak through a small opening, wiggle behind a tower of boxes, I may go elsewhere, more convenient.

  • Privacy

Cats do like privacy when going to the bathroom just like my human Mom (but we do like to visit her)!!  If there is a lot of hustle and bustle, kids running, dogs checking us out, I am probably going to find a more quiet place to go. 

Also, keep dogs and children from coming at me while I am in the litterbox, baby gates may be needed.  If I keep getting interrupted, I may just stop going there all together.  As a side note – I think it is hilarious that dogs like to eat our poop!!! Dogs really are the weirdest, however, this habit could result in a trip to the vet, not only can litter cause plumbing problems in a house, if you know what I mean….

  • Don’t put litterboxes where I might get scared

If I am in my litterbox and a really loud noise scares me, I may never use that box again.  Cats have long memories when it comes to things like that.  It is one of our survival instincts to keep us safe.  Find a place away from washers, dryers, water heaters, furnaces,  or anything that may suddenly go on and startle us.  

Also, if litterboxes are near lots of boxes in a storage area, if one of those boxes ever falls down and scares me, or worse, if I am in my litterbox and one falls down and scares me, I will remember that area is dangerous and I may avoid it. 

  • It is important that I can see who is coming when I am in the litterbox

If I am in the litterbox and all of a sudden get pounced on by the other cat in the house, that can be quite unnerving.  It is good to have litterboxes against a wall so I can have my back covered but can see all around me in case of pesky cats, or nosey dogs or curious kids, who think it is funny to sneak up on me.  If I have to go inside a small opening to go to the bathroom and there is a bully cat who is at the front preventing me from getting out, I may never use that litterbox again in fear of being held hostage again.  The same goes for pesky dogs or children that bother me while I am in my litterbox.  We like our quiet solitude and must feel safe when we go, don’t you?

  • Quick Escape can be important

As stated above, a litterbox located in an area where I can see what is coming and go in the opposite direction for a quick escape is essential.  Having more than one way out makes cats feel in control rather than trapped. 

  • Never place litterboxes near food or water

Ugggh, Who wants to eat and drink in the bathroom.  If you must keep them close, keep litterboxes at least 6 feet away from food and water, different rooms are best.

 

Hopefully, this gives you great insight into making the right choices for you and your cat.  When it comes to our litterboxes, we really like to be clean, quiet and safe.  We really do want to do the right thing.  If we are not going in our litterbox, something is wrong and we are trying to tell you something is wrong.  We will try very hard to tell you what is wrong but sometimes we fall short on human speak.  It is a very hard language, you know.  Once you figure out why we are doing something wrong and you fix it, we should be back on the right track, but that is a whole different story….here is a link to my blog article, Litter box Problems and Solutions by Gus Bennett.

Bye for now, hugs,

Gus Bennett

 

 

About the Owner/Author

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

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This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author/Owner.

 

 

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About the Owner/Author

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

All rights reserved, copyright 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author/Owner.

 

 

 

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