Blog Article List – Table of Contents – Professional Pet Sitting Etc

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Here is a  list of all of our Blog Articles

for Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

Go Back to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Home Page

 

Check out our 300+ published Articles and 30+ published Videos

Make sure to visit us OFTEN, new articles are publishes every week !!

 

Videos and Commercials

 

E-Books, Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial & Awards

 

Apartments and House for Rent in NH that are Pet friendly

 

Financial Help and More for Pet Owners

 

List of Animal Welfare Groups & Animal Welfare Articles

Adopt A Pet Series, Every Animal Has a Story – Let’s Give them a Happy Ending – Adopt Today

 

 NH Animal Laws, Free Pets Safety

 

Safety in Finding a Pet or Re-homing a Pet

 

Job Openings for Pet Sitters and Dog Walkers

 

 

Our Very Own Newsletter

2017

2016

2015

Early Years – 

 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews and Testimonials

 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc is in the SPOTLIGHT by a fellow Pet Sitting Business Owner

 

Pet Sitting Information, Tips and Safety

 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Services

 

Cat Care

 

Dog Care

 

Dog Breed Spotlight

 

Other Pets

 

Pet Care

 

Wildlife

 

Disaster Planning

 

Book Reviews

 

Educational Info Graphics

 

Monthly Pet Tips

 

Holiday Articles

 

Product Recalls

 

Misc. Articles

 

  • * 2016
  • + 2017

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About the Owner/Author

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

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Orphan Kitten Care

Baby kitten, orphan kitten

Baby Felice as an orphan kitten

How to Care for An Orphan Kitten

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

 

Raising a young orphaned kitten can be very challenging, especially if you have never done it before. Well, the ideal solution is to find a nursing mother cat that’s willing to take on a new mouth to feed. If it is not possible, you will need to prepare for weeks of constant care so as to safely raise the young motherless kitten to a point of weaning.

In this article, were are going to give you a step by step guide on what to do if you have an orphan kitten.

Step 1 – Bring to a Veterinarian

If the Mom is just refusing to nurse the kitten, she may have something wrong.  Best to check her out.

If the kitten is orphaned, make sure that the baby is healthy.  They may have been orphaned because the Mom knows something is wrong or if you found this kitten outside, exposure may have put this baby in an unhealthy environment.  This baby may have parasites and a quick safe wormer may be in order.

 

Step 2 – Keep Warm

The first thing you need to is to make sure the orphaned kitten is kept warm in her nest (typically a box or crate). Young kittens that are less than 3 weeks old cannot regulate their body temperature, and can easily get chilled. You will need to improvise a safe warming center for a couple of weeks that’s kept in an isolated area of the house. You can prepare a nest that’s lined with towels, and then put a hot water bottle under the towels or a heating pad (on low, always have a towel between kitten and heat source). Make sure you leave it in a place where the kitten can easily crawl away if she gets too hot.

 

Step 3 – Kitten Formula

During the 1st 48 hours of life, kittens normally receive the vital antibodies from their mothers’ milk. This rather special milk (also known as colostrum), is secreted by the kitten’s mother for the 1st couple of days before it’s replaced by regular milk. A kitten that doesn’t receive the colostrum for the 1st few days usually has a fragile immune system. If the kitten was lucky enough to have nursed the first few days great but in many orphan cases we will never know.

In any case, it is recommend that you use powdered kitten milk replacement formula right from the start. The powdered kitten milk replacement formula is the cat’s equivalent of infant formula, and has the same composition as the milk from the kittens’ mother. KMR (kitten milk replacer) can be found in any pet store.  It can be found in powdered form (just add water) or ready to be fed as is.

NEVER feed cow’s milk because the lactose or sugar, will most likely upset the kitten’s stomach.

Before feeding the orphan kitten, remember to warm the formula up to body temperature just like you would a human baby.  You can test it on your wrist to make sure it is not too hot or cold.  Then feed via a syringe, a dropper, or baby nursing bottle. Make sure you keep the kitten in the upright position (on her stomach), so that the milk does not go into her lungs. Feed her slowly so she doesn’t choke. That said, it’s important to note that in the 1st week of life, a kitten should be fed every two to three hours. At 2 weeks, she can be fed every four to six hours. And after 3 weeks of age, she can be fed every six to eight hours.

 

Step 4 – Stimulate to go to the bathroom

Until the kitten is 4 weeks old, she will not able to go to the bathroom on her own. The Mother cat will help to keep the nest clean by gently washing the kittens genitals with her tongue and ingesting all elimination made by the kittens.

Since this is not something we will replicate exactly as mom would do, we will use a warm washcloth or cotton ball while on a paper towel.

After feeding, you would gently rub your kittens’ back to encourage a burp to help expel the air that was sucked in when she was feeding. Within 15 minutes after feeding, you can place the kitten on a few paper towels. Use a warm washcloth or moistened cotton pad or ball to gently massage her genitals and anal area.  Be gentle to prevent chafing. This will stimulate the elimination process, and the kitten will start to defecate or urinate. Keep massaging the area until she stops. Afterwards, gently pat the genital area dry so as to avoid infection and irritation.

The urine should be pale yellow, and the feces should be yellowish-brown in color. If you happen to notice green or white feces, or a dark urine which has a strong odor, the kitten might be dehydrated or needs immediate medical attention.

At around 3 weeks of age, you can offer a litterbox, use just a small amount of litter at first.  They may not use it right away but you will eventually see them start to use it.  Try using pellets, they are large enough to prevent lots of tracking and are made from paper or wheat and will not cause a blockage if eaten.  Unscented clay litter is also a possibility.  Try to avoid clumping or silica litters at this age which may cause a blockage if ingested.

 

Step 5 – Keep Kitten Clean

Once you have fed and helped the kitten eliminate, you will need to clean her. Take a warm, clean, damp cloth and stroke the orphaned kitten’s fur using short, gentle strokes. The strokes should emulate her mother’s tongue, just as she’d have cleaned her kitten. Doing this will give the kitten a pleasant feeling of well being, and also teaches her how to clean the fur as she gets older. Make sure you towel dry the kitten til she’s completely dry, before placing her back in the soft warm bedding.

 

Step 6 – Lots of handling

In order for the kitten to thrive, she’ll need a lot of affection from you, similar to the closeness she’d receive if she was living with her mother. Not only will this be a fun part of raising an orphaned kitten, but it’ll also bond her closely to you and turn her into an affectionate, cuddly cat. In addition to this, she will also need plenty of playtime as she grows. This time in a kittens life is a very formidable one.  This is where she will learn that humans are loving and caring.

 

Step 7 – Know when to go to the vet

Know when to take the motherless kitten to the veterinarian. As mentioned earlier, it is always a good idea to take the kitten to the veterinarian soonest possible to let them check for dehydration, parasites, and assess the kitten’s general health. That said, you need to know when to take the orphan kitten to the veterinarian for medical treatment. Babies can go down hill very fast, so do not hesitate.

You should take the kitten to the vet if you happen to notice;
-Vomiting
-A very low or high temperature
-Weight loss
-Lack of energy
-Breathing difficulties
-Discharge from the nose and eyes
-Lack of appetite
-Diarrhea
-Any kind of bleeding
-Coughing and sneezing
-Any kind of trauma, such as being stepped on, being hit by a car, among others.

 

Step 8 – Transitioning off formula

Around 3-4 weeks of age.  You can start adding use a small amount of pate canned cat food.  Just blend it very smooth so it can pass through the nipple of the bottle.

This will help the kitten feel fuller longer and will start transitioning the kitten to more solid foods.  As they do well with a little, you can add a bit.  After a few days, try mixing the pate canned food and formula in a bowl.  Make sure to put lots of paper towels or newspapers down, the kittens will make a mess until they figure out how to eat properly rather than sucking a bottle.  They will most definitely need a cleaning after feeding.  At 4 – 6 weeks, you can add more canned food with less formula until there is no formula at all.  Now you have successfully, weaned your kitten off formula and onto solid food.

 

Step 9 – Lots of play time

Ages 4 – 12 weeks.  This is the important time of play.  They learn how to wrestle, climb, jump and hunt.  Playing with siblings and with you helps them develop good social skills, mental and physical abilities.  This time is crucial in getting them socialized to become great housecats.

 

Step 10 – The Rest of Their Life

If you are fostering this kitten for a shelter, 8-12 weeks is about the time they will be going up for adoption.  You can safely let them go knowing YOU made a difference in this kitten’ life.

If you are trying to find this kitten a home on your own, do NOT let it go without doing all the work to make sure the potential home is a lifelong safe one.  This baby’s life depends on you and there are many people who seem nice but are not.  It is hard to find good homes and that is why most people will leave it up to the people who do it all the time, a shelter or animal rescue.  Here is some help but remember that YOU are responsible to find a safe home for this baby’s  – What to ask when you need to find a home for your pet.

If you have decided to keep this baby, then you have made a difference in not only the kitten’s life but also your own!! Congratulations !!

 

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About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

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All rights reserved, copyright 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author and Owner.

 

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Professional Pet Sitting Etc September 2017 Newsletter

British kitten in autumn park, fallen leaves, September 2017

Fall, my FAVORITE time of year!!

Professional Pet Sitting Etc

September 2017

Pet Newsletter

Click Here to View

 

In This Issue –

 

Welcome Autumn

Cat Ladies are Awesome!

Rescue Spotlight – ARL of NH

Top 6 Super Fruits for Dogs

Kennel Cough Season

Fall Trivia – 15 Fun & Amazing Pet Facts

 

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

 

 

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews and Testimonials

All rights reserved, copyright 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016. 2017

This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author and Owner.

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Cost of Owning a Pet

Cat and dog sitting on the windowsill

We will pay you back in love!!

How Much Does That Pet In The Window Cost

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

Pet ownership is very rewarding. Owning a pet is usually associated with a healthy living and overall better enjoyment of life. Security and companionship are other benefits of pet ownership, along with teaching kids responsibility and empathy. That said, it’s important to note that getting a pet entails a serious commitment and it’s important to be well aware of the costs associated with pet ownership. In this article, we will look at some of the basic costs of dog ownership.

Costs of Pet Ownership

The cost of a pet is usually much higher during the first year than the years after because of various one time expenses. You should also note that puppies/kittens generally cost more to take care of during the first year than adults because they require much more veterinarian care. Below are some of the costs to consider.

 

Food

Food is usually the biggest expense associated with pets.  The cost of food will depend on your type of pet, size,  energy level, and quality of food you buy. Be aware that giving your pet special foods, such as freshly made or veterinary therapeutic diets, may cost even more a month. That said, on average, small to medium sized pets may cost between $600 to $1,400 during the 1st year because they eat less. Large breeds can cost anywhere between $1,000 and $2,500 during the 1st year because they eat more.

 

Veterinary Care

Veterinary care is another big expense that’s often underestimated or overlooked, when considering the cost of  ownership. Puppies/kittens need numerous sets of vaccinations and adult will need boosters. Puppies/kittens may also need regular and ongoing preventative treatment. Some of the basic veterinary costs can include vaccinations, worming, tick and flea prevention,heartworm prevention, office visit fees, among others. The overall veterinary costs can cost anywhere between $500 –  $700 annually. Medical problems can add to that.

 

Spay/Neuter

Unless you’re planning to breed your dog (and that is a whole other article), it is best to spay/neuter all pets. This is a one time procedure that can cost anywhere between $200 and $600 depending on the breed and size, and whether there is any health conditions which can complicate the surgery.

 

Dental Care

Pets can suffer from the same dental issues as people and therefore should have their teeth checked regularly. Dental problems can lead to loss of teeth, infections and sometimes even organ damage. Regular dental check ups are very important for keeping your pet’s teeth in good shape, preventing infections and keeping the breath fresh. Annual dental care costs can range anywhere between $150 and $500; depending on current dental health.

 

Pet Insurance

Pet insurance isn’t cheap, but it may give you the much needed peace of mind and will help cover the large unexpected medical bills which can arise over your pet’s lifetime. Before getting insurance, it’s advised to do some research before settling on a particular insurance plan. You can go to each insurance company and then carefully read their policy and compare; make sure you read the fine print and fully understand the applicable spending caps, coverage limitations and deductibles. According to CNBC, the estimated monthly cost for dog insurance is between $10 and $35, depending on the the type of coverage purchased.

 

Grooming

Your pet’s grooming needs will largely depend on the type of coat they have. Short haired pets generally require less maintenance and fewer grooming expenses as compared to pets with longer coats. The overall cost of grooming (including grooming tools and visits to a groomer), can range anywhere between $30 and 500 a year.

 

Supplies

The supplies you will need may include, but not limited to; water and food bowls, leash, harness, collar, pet stain cleaner, odor neutralizer, toys, bed, a travel crate, a car restraint, bedding, poop bags, litterbox, litter scoop, and more.

 

Extras

In addition to the above basic costs, you should also be prepared for other unexpected costs. The best way is to always stay prepared by setting aside some extra money in savings.

Have an extra credit card with a zero balance for just in case things that may happen with your pet.

Open a checking account that is only for pet expenses.  Try to transfer $25 – 50 per week to the pet account.  If you can put more great.  You never know when a medical emergency will happen.

 

Ways To Save For Medical

-Shop around for various prices on vaccinations. Look for Clinics.  In NH we have Low Cost Clinics. 

-Keep your pet in good shape with a healthy diet and regular exercise; this will stave off the common health problems like joint and bone disease, diabetes and other costly health problems. Check out Pet Sitting Services with Professional Pet Sitting Etc for Daily Dog Walking/Mid Day let Out and Feline Fun Time.  They will come into your home while you are at work and exercise your pets.

-Keep vaccines up to date and get routine physicals for all pets

-Save money on emergency trips to the vet by pet proofing your home.

-Save money on medications by asking for a prescription from your veterinarian.  Many medications can now be purchased for less at Walmart or online.

 

Thank you for reading our article, we hope that you found this informative and helpful.

 

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

 

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews and Testimonials

All rights reserved, copyright 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author and Owner.

 

Share

Lost Cat

Lost Cat

I am scared. Please be patient with me.

What To Do Before, During and After

Your Inside Cat Gets Outside

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

If you own an indoor cat, one of your greatest fears is that the cat will get out. Cats are not like dogs when they get out.  Most cats will hide and they are very good at it.  Cats know they are considered prey for many animals even though they are hunters.  Most cats also hide because of fear.  They are in unfamiliar territory, so they want to observe from a very safe, enclosed space.  Many times, your cat may be a few feet from you but because your cat is very scared, they may not even move from that safe spot for days.  Almost frozen in fear.  So, what can you do.

 

Prevention is First

Step 1 –  Collar Your Cat

Get a collar that’s comfortable, and one that your cat can not remove easily. Collars for cats are going to be different then dogs.  Cat collars must be able to slip off their head or breakaway if a cat climbs on something and the collar becomes stuck.  You do not want the collar to harm your pet, so it must come off.  Collars do help, but you do not want to rely on just a collar to get your cat back.

 

Identification Tag

Your cat should always wear some kind of identification.  This will make it easy for anyone to notify you if they found your cat. Collar/tag should have your cat’s name (some people leave the name off), your name, your street address, and your phone number. Some tags are just fine with two phone numbers.  The second phone number can be a friend or relative.

We suggest an engraved tag that slips onto the collar, rather than a tag that attached via a metal ring.  Metal ring tags can get caught and fall off.

In case tags fall off, you can write some information on the collar using a permanent marker. Collars can also be embroidered with information as well but since cat collars are so small, you may just be able to get a phone number.

 

GPS tags

There are some GPS tags out there that people like.  These tags will let you know if your cat has left a certain area.  They can get you pretty close to where you cat is using an app on your phone.

 

Step 2 –  Microchip Your Cat

In today’s highly technological world, tracking your lost cat has never been easier. Thanks to microchip technology, many people have been reunited with their lost pets because of microchips. A microchip is a tiny implant between a cat’s shoulder blades, and it contains identifying information which an animal shelter or veterinarian can scan and find whom the cat belongs to. Some pets that have been missing for a very long time have found their way back to loving owner’s.  Another good thing about a microchip is once it is registered in your name, if there was ever a dispute that you owned your cat, a microchip could be used as proof of ownership.

Check your information with the microchip company at least once a year (especially if you move or change phone numbers). If you have made a birth date, do it every year on your pet’s birthday.  You can make one even if you do not know the exact date.  Take the estimated age at time of your pet’s adoption, that will give you a year.  Choose a month and day. Now your pet has a birthday!!

 

Step 3 –  Harness/Leash Train Your Cat

Your cat would love some outside time but you never want to let your cat roam free.  It is our responsibility as pet owners to keep our pets safe at all times. Cats that roam freely unsupervised are never safe from cars, wildlife, people, dogs, and other cats!  Their possible loss of life and safety are not worth it.

However, cats can easily be trained to go outside with you on harness and leash.  Always take them out through a door that you do not use for going to work.  For example if you use your front door or garage door to go to work every day, do NOT use those doors.  Use the door you go out to your back yard.  Why?  You want to train your cat that going out is only through that one door.  This way your cat will not try to go to work with you every day! In fact you want to discourage your cat from using those doors.

You want a harness that fits snuggly and prevents your cat from  slipping out or backing out of it.  A vest harness is best and fits snuggly around your cats body.  They come in all decorator colors now.

Never tie your cat outside and never leave your cat outside without you.  Cats can jump down or up on things and end up getting themselves in very harmful situations.

Why is this a good thing to teach your cat to be on harness and leash and go outside with you?  Well, it is nice for them to get some fresh air and sunshine, but also to get used to the sights and sounds when outside with you safely.  That way, if they ever do get outside by themselves, it will not be so traumatizing.  They will be calmer and most will run out and then stop waiting for you to come get them rather than running out , getting scared and taking off to hide.

I have trained my cats to be outside in my fenced in area.

Feel free to read the Two Ways To Keep Your Cats Outside Safely.

 

 

Step 5 – Train, Train, Train

Yes, all cats can be trained. Just like dogs, use repetition.  Every time you feed your cat, use your cat’s name and come or come here or supper time.  It really does not matter what you say, as long as you say the SAME thing for the same action.  This is because you want your cat to come when called.  That way if he does get outside, you can use the words they know and understand.

The best thing that can ever be trained is the recall.

 

Step 6 – Spay/Neuter your pets

All pets should be spayed/neutered.  Unneutered pets are going to escape to do what their hormones are telling them to do.  These pets can become lost in their quest. They will roam long distances to find a mate.  Spaying/neutering not only makes a happier pet but healthier as well as keeping down over population.

 

Step 7 –  Take Pictures of Your Cat

Today it is very easy to keep our pet photos up to date.  Take full body shots, head close ups, and any special markings.  Make sure the pictures are clear and crisp for identification. In case your cat goes missing, you will need these pictures to create posters and flyers. Include distinct identifying traits in the pictures so as to distinguish your cat from similar cats. Once you have taken the pictures, consider sharing them with family and friends, in case your computer crashes or phone is stolen. Facebook and icloud also make a good place to store photos.

 

Step 8 – Treat Training

Buy a can of treats or use a plastic Tupperware container filled with very small treats.  Find a container that makes some good noise when the treats are shaken in it.  Then every time you give your cat a treat, shake the container and say treat time (or whatever you choose, just use the same words).  This will train your cat to come for a treat when he hears the shaking treat container and also your words – treat time!!  This can be used outside as well.

Try to do this at various times, so it is never a routine time that you give treats.  Why? Because pets get very used to routines and when they get out, it is never at the time we want.  So, create a treat time whenever.  We want them hungry for treats so they come fast.

 

Step 9 – Make a Plan BEFORE to Act Fast

You have a better chance of finding your cat if you have a solid plan AND to have a solid plan when you are not upset and in crisis because your pet is lost.

Create a plan BEFORE something happens.  Know who to call and where to go.  Make a list of the town you live in and all border towns.  The Humane Society of the US recommends notifying everyone within a 60 miles radius.

Know every animal control officer and police station, list phone numbers.  Find out all Animal Hospitals, Animal Shelters and rescues in the above towns, with their contact information.

Make a complete description of your pet in writing, even create a lost poster. Take your time, research what is beneficial to place on posters.  Create this poster to have on hand to print and go.  You probably have a photo app that you can create and keep on hand, just changing the photo every now and then.  Create your poster to stand out.  Include your cat’s picture, breed (if purebred, if not choose DSH or DLH – domestic long/short hair), color, sex, age, weight, special markings and such other specifications. You can also include contact information like your name, phone number and email.  Have an area on the poster to fill in a few things last minute, such as – Date your cat went missing, Street and city where cat was last seen, description of collar, is your cat dragging a leash or has a harness on.  If your cat is very shy or has any behavior issues.

We suggest not putting your cat’s name on the posters and you may want to include – Do not chase, please contact owner. Why?  Some people may want your cat, so let’s not have your cat go to them by name and if your cat is frightened, having people chase after him will make them more frightened.  It is better to have people contact you with a sighting so you can go and calmly find your cat.

If this cat was adopted – contact the shelter you adopted from.  Many shelters do adopt with microchips and they may be contacted if the cat is found.

 

 

Your Cat Has Disappeared Outside, now what

In case your inside cat has gone missing, there are steps you can take to ensure a safe return of your beloved pet. In this article, we will highlight the steps you need to take to in order to find your lost indoor cat.

 

Step 1 – Check entire house, inside and out

Once you have established that your inside cat is missing, it’s natural to feel upset, but getting into a panic mode will not help you find your cat. However, taking immediate action can mitigate your anxiety. If you conduct a thorough search immediately, there is a good chance you will find your cat close to the area where it was lost. If more time passes, the cat will have a higher opportunity to roam further from your home.

Flashlight – bring a flashlight with you.  Why?  This is your secret weapon because you can shine it is dark places and the cats eye will shine back at you!! This works great in dark closets or anywhere at night. Just remember that other animal’s eyes will shine back at you as well, so make sure it is your cat!!

 

Step 2 – Check even the smallest places

Cats are very brilliant at keeping quiet, and many missing cats have been found in very unusual indoor hiding places. Make sure everyone has a flashlight as mentioned above. Cats can get into very tiny spaces, and can find extraordinary places to hide, which makes it rather tricky to find them. Before you head out, make sure you carefully check every cupboard in the house, including those you rarely use. Also check the inside of the washing machine and cozy places like in wardrobes and under the beds.

 

Step 3 – Try to See things from your cat’s point of view

Cats (even the neutered ones) are very territorial, and the cat’s territory was the inside the house. The moment your inside cat finds herself in unfamiliar outside world, she will get frightened and her immediate response is to look for shelter and hide in silence.

Remember, cats are prey as well as predator, so hiding is instinct for safety.

A cat is likely to find shelter within a few meters near the escape point, like under a porch, in the garage, inside the shed, in crawlspaces, or in a bush. The cat may also head upwards, onto the roofs or tree branches. You should let your neighbors know about the cat’s absence, and ask permission to look in their sheds, gardens and garages. If your neighbors have windows which face your home, you can ask them to keep an eye out for your cat.

 

Step 4 – Take your time looking and try to stay calm

When looking for your cat, take your time and call out your cat’s name, circling the area the cat was last seen. That said, do not assume the cat will respond to your voice as it normally does. Most lost cats are usually terrified, and might not want to leave their hiding spots even for you. Call quietly for the cat, using a gentle voice. Do not be too loud, as you run the risk of startling and frightening your cat even more. Many cats are so scared, they go into survival panic mode and freeze in a safe small space.

Here is where the treat can comes in handy.  If you have worked with your cat to come for treats, this just may break the trauma mode and your cat will come out. If not do not give up on the treat can.  Try the treat can every few hours or so.  If your cat keeps hearing it, they may feel comfortable enough to come out.

You can also bring along the cat’s favorite toy. If the cat has a beloved toy on a wand or string (like a stuffed mouse), you can take it with you when doing the search. Make the toy very visible, like you want your cat to play with you; doing this may help allay fears, and can bring your cat out of hiding. This helps if you know your cat is way under a porch but you can not get to them.  Sit quietly and keep playing with the toy, sometimes after a while your cat will focus on the toy instead of the fear and come out. If it is dark enough, don’t forget the laser light.  That light cat shine far and may get your cat to forget they are scared and come out.

As you walk around, remember to stop and listen regularly. A cat that’s trapped, hungry or hurt may meow. Whether you are searching with a group or by yourself, take a couple of minutes in every location you search to carefully listen for your cat’s meow. Pay close attention to sheds and garages where she might have been locked in or got stuck.

 

Step 5 – Hear is where your planning comes in handy

Call your local veterinary offices and the animal rescue centers with a clear description of your cat. Make sure the details you give them are up to date, and ask them if they would mind putting up a poster, or posting something on their social media profiles or website to help to find your missing cat. You should also consider checking the local animal shelters in person, at least once a week because even though you have given a description, many times your description and someone else’s may not be the same.  Best to see in person.

 

Step 6 – Print out and hang those posters

Print the posters and flyers that you made while you were preparing a while ago. Make sure all information is up to date. Distribute and post flyers wherever your missing cat was last seen, and throughout your neighborhood. You can also drop in places like post offices, shops, gyms, pubs and the local store, and ask them if they would mind displaying your flyer to help you find the missing cat.

 

Step 7 – Use Social Media & Document Sightings

Use various social media platforms to tell people you know that your cat is missing. You can add a post to the “Pets” and “Lost & Found” section on Craigslist; this has actually led to lots of reunions between missing cats and their owners. You can also use other social media platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Twitter; this gives your neighbors and friends a visual reminder of the kind of cat to look out for.

Keep careful documentation of all sightings. Set out to put flyers in areas of each sighting. All animals will cross roads, highways, ponds, rivers, etc to get to wherever they think they are going or away from whatever may be chasing them.

 

Step 8 – Familiar Smell & Video

Most cats are generally still close to home and cats have a very good sense of smell.  Let’s use that and make your home outside familiar with their litterbox, cat bed, etc.

If you can open the door a little on the porch or garage, put all of these things in there to make it safe.  Buy an outside video camera or trail camera(at Walmart) and set it up to see if your cat is coming in.  Seeing your cat will go a long way for your peace of mind.  You can also set up the trail camera in places that your cat may be sighted.

 

Step 9 – You see your cat

Once you see your cat, do everything to get him to come to you.  Do not chase him, he may panic and run into traffic or farther away.  Shake the treat can.  Sit on the ground and toss treats out, use toys.  Try to stay there until your cat feels safe to come to you.  This may take a while, hours even, so be patient.  Try to not invade your cat’s space too much which may make them move.  They are much quicker then we are and you do not want to lose sight of them again.

You can rent a Hav-a-hart trap from the Concord SPCA.  They will give you instructions.  If you do this, you must check traps every few hours from far away.  If an animal is trapped inside, it is vulnerable to all kinds of harm and they can be more traumatized and scared.  Use binoculars to check the trap from a far distance.  Sometimes animals will wait to see that the trap is safe and not disturbed for hours before they get close enough to that yummy smelly food inside.  So you do not want to be seen anywhere near it but do want to see if anything is inside.  Hopefully not something you are not trapping!

Do not give up hope.  Cats have been returned to owners years later.  Especially if they have a microchip.

 

What To Do After Your Pet is Home

 

Step 1 – Take to the vet

After you have brought your lost cat home.  Check them all over for any wounds.  Make sure they look good.  If they look like their normal self.  Give them some water and half of a normal meal.  If they have been away for a few days or longer, they may have not eaten very much and may eat too fast and throw it up.  Then call your vet and get them in the next day.  Your veterinarian may see or find things that you may not see.  A hidden wound, will turn into an abcess.  I would also suggest bloodwork, just to make sure everything is okay.  They may have gotten into something or eaten something that was not good.  Best to check everything out now and be on the safe side.

 

Step 2 –  Eliminate Opportunities of escape

One of the most common ways a cat gets lost is bolting out doors. Teach your cat to stay away from all doors, especially front doors and doors to your garage.  Use a squirt bottle of water if they run to the door when someone comes.  Keep an eye on them as you open the door.  If you do not have a screen/storm door, install one.  This way you can talk to someone through that door without opening it.

Teach cats when people come, that after you let them in, go to the kitchen and shake the treat can.  That way if they do get out, they know that treats are coming and may hopefully run back in for treats.

Never take your cat out those doors without being in a carrier.  When going to the vet and they are in a carrier, Always make sure that carriers are secure.  Sometimes, people obtain a small carrier when cats ar kittens, then they grow and weigh more and the carrier is too small and flimsy for an adult cat.  Always make sure the fasteners are secure.  You can make them more secure using metal screws and bolts or zip ties with the fasteners (not just zip ties which can crack and break over time).

 

Step 3 – Fence your yard and use a cat Invisible Fence

If you can afford it, get your yard fenced and put in a cat invisible fence.  Invisible Fence is great but It does not PROTECT you or your cat.  So, fence your yard with a 6 foot fence or higher.  If you place that fence around the invisible fence, you can prevent your cat from going near the fence and climbing over or under. Using both fences will help keep your cat much safer.  Also, you will be safer because most wildlife and dogs can not come in.  Of course, never leave your cat outside unsupervised by you.  Your cat will have a ton of fun running around, exploring.  It is the best way to let your cat outside because they are safe.

You can also create catios.  These are another way for cats  to go outside safely.  Just google catios.  There are lots of them.

 

Step 4 –  Make Your Home Welcoming and Comfortable

You should make your home a place your cat likes to be. You can make your home a fun and happy place by creating cat areas in your home.  Lots of scratching posts in various shapes and sizes.  Cat beds and lots of toys.  Do not forget the catnip!  There is also puzzle feeders for cats.

Create Kitty TV – put bird feeders outside a window.  This way your cat can watch them coming and going.  Just be careful if you have bears in your area.  Otherwise the bears will rip them down.  Birdseed is like bear candy.

Exercise – giving your cat as much exercise as possible helps to wear off that energy.  Give them at least 30 minutes of fun exercise a day.  Giving your cat regular exercise helps curb boredom and those who think about escaping.

What if I do not have the time?  We all lead busy lives.  Have you thought of hiring a pet sitter?  Professional Pet Sitting Etc can come to your home every day while you are at work. We can play with your kitty and break up the long boring days.  We have lots of different lengths of time to fit most budgets.

 

Step 5 –  Train Your Cat

If you did not have time to train your cat before they got out, now is the time to start training. Train them to stay away from doors, on harness & leash, to come for treats.  It takes most cats 2 – 4 weeks to train, if you are consistent, use the same gestures and words. Cats must have patience When you train.  They take a bit longer then dogs only because they have to feel it is their idea.  They are cats after all!!

Training gives both your cat and the owner more things to do together.

Simply said, training your cat gives you both a platform of communication.  It gives boundaries and your cat will respect those boundaries when they understand them. It also increases the quality of the relationship when you both understand one another.

 

We hope that this article was informative and helpful to you.  We want all pets to stay safe and happy.

 

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

 

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

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Lost Dog

Brown German Shepherd Running On Green Grass

Dogs May run and get lost for a variety of reasons

What To Do If Your Dog Gets Lost

Before, During and After

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc 

 

As a dog owner, losing your dog is one of the most heartbreaking and frightening things that can happen. Many dogs tend to run off to explore, then are unable to find their way home. They can slip out of leashes, dig their way out of fenced yards, or jump out of vehicles. Finding your dog when he/she is missing or lost is hard, but the following steps can help increase your odds of finding your furry friend.

 

Prevention is First

Step 1 –  Collar/Tag Your Dog

Collar

Get a collar that’s comfortable, and one that your dog can’t remove easily. Collars should always be tight enough to never slip over your dog’s head.  If you dig puts the breaks on, you never want your dog to back out of their collar and take off.  A collar should be snug enough that you can only place TWO fingers in between the neck of your dog and the collar.  Try to pull your dog’s collar up over your dog’s head to see if it will slip off.  Greyhounds and dogs that have slim heads, may do better with a Martingale collar.  You must remember to always grab the part of the collar that tightens the collar and not any other part or it will easily come off your dog.

Identification Tag

Your dog should always wear some kind of identification.  This will make it easy for anyone to notify you if they found your dog. Collar/tag should have your dog’s name, your name, your street address, and your phone number. Some tags are just fine with two phone numbers.  The second phone number can be a friend or relative.

We suggest an engraved tag that slips onto the collar, rather than a tag that attached via a metal ring.  Metal ring tags can get caught and fall off.

In case tags fall off, you can write some information on the dog collar using a permanent marker. Collars can also b embroidered with information as well.

Temporary Tags

If you are going on vacation or traveling for any reason, use a temporary tag.  You can get a tag at any pet store and write your information on it.  It is better then no tag.

Rabies Tag

If your dog also has a rabies tag, this can be traced back to your dog’s veterinarian, and he/she can quickly link the collar/tag information to you, and make contact. This ID alone is not advised, since the animal hospital is not open 24/7/365.  Inevitably, your dog will run off at the most inopportune time.

 

Step 2 –  Microchip Your Dog

In today’s highly technological world, tracking your lost dog has never been easier. Thanks to microchip technology, many people have been reunited with their lost pets. A microchip is a tiny implant between a dog’s shoulder blades, and it contains identifying information which an animal shelter or veterinarian can scan and find whom the dog belongs to. Some pets that have been missing for a very long time have found their way back to loving owner’s.  Another good thing about a microchip is once it is registered in your name, if there was ever a dispute that you owned your dog, a microchip could be used as proof of ownership.

Check your information with the microchip company at least once a year (especially if you move or change phone numbers). If you have made a birth date, do it your pet’s birthday.  You can make one even if you do not know the exact date.  Take the estimated age at time of your pet coming home so you have a year.  Choose a month and day.

Step 3 –  Leash Your Dog

Whenever you are taking your dog for a walk, make sure he is on a leash. Even if your dog is trained, keeping them leashed helps with the unexpected.  NEVER let your dogs run free unsupervised unless, it is in a safe fenced in area.  It is not safe for them or others.

A sturdy 6 foot nylon leash is best for walking.  Put your hand through the loop and grasp the leash (the loop should be around your wrist).  With your other hand, hold the leash taking up the slack as your dog is walking by your side.  This way you have two hands on the leash and the end around your wrist and if your dog bolts you have a lot of control.

We do NOT endorse using any type of retractable Flexi types leashes.  Not only have many been ripped out of people’s hands but have also broken when dogs bolt and people have been injured if the leash wraps around your finger or wrist as the dog is bolting.  This is very dangerous.

 

Step 5 – Train, Train, Train

Research trainers in your area.  Ask if you can sit in on a session to see if you like the trainer and how they teach.  If you feel comfortable with your teacher, you will learn better and get more out of it.  Every trainer teaches in a different way, find one you like.

Obedience training is NOT to teach your dog.  Obedience training is to teach YOU to train your dog.  So, for those that say their dog has flunked obedience…..You must practice and practice.  Obedience training gives you and your dog a platform of communication.  This communication is essential for a wonderful SAFE relationship with your dog.  A trained dog is enjoyable to walk and have around.  But it is more than that, it is SAFE for you and for your pet.

We advise going through a puppy class, then basic obedience and then advanced.  The more training you do, the better and safer your dog will be.

The best thing that can ever be trained is the recall.

 

Step 6 – Spay/Neuter your pets

All pets should be spayed/neutered.  Un-neutered pets are going to escape to do what their hormones are telling them to do.  These pets usually will become lost. They will roam long distances to find a mate.  Spaying/neutering not only makes a happier pet but healthier as well as keeping down over population.

 

Step 7 –  Take Pictures of Your Dog

Today it is very easy to keep our pet photos up to date.  Take full body shots, head close ups, a any special markings.  Make sure the pictures are clear and crisp for identification. In case your dog goes missing, you will need these pictures to create posters and flyers. Include distinct identifying traits in the pictures so as to distinguish your dog from similar dogs. Once you have taken the pictures, consider sharing them with family and friends, in case your computer crashes or phone is stolen. Facebook and icloud also make a good place to store photos.

Step 8 – Treat Training

Buy a can of treats or use a plastic Tupperware container filled with very small treats.  Find a container that makes some good noise when the treats are shaken in it.  Then every time you give your dog a treat, shake the container and say treat time (or whatever you choose, just use the same words).  This will train your dog to come for a treat when he hears the shaking treat container and also your words – treat time!!  This can be used outside as well.
What To Do To Find Your Lost Dog

 

Make a Plan to Act Fast

You have a better chance of finding your dog if you’ve a solid plan AND to have a solid plan when you are not upset and in crisis because your pet is lost.

Create a plan BEFORE something happens.  Know who to call and where to go.  Make a list of the town you live in and all border towns.  The Humane Society of the US recommends notifying everyone within a 60 miles radius.

Know every animal control officer and police station, list phone numbers.  Find out all Animal Hospitals, Animal Shelters and rescues in the above towns, with their contact information.

Make a complete description of your pet in writing, even create a lost poster. Take your time, research what is beneficial to place on posters.  Create this poster to have on hand to print and go.  You probably have a photo app that you can create and keep on hand, just changing the photo every now and then.  Create your poster to stand out.  Include your dog’s picture, breed, color, sex, age, weight, special markings and such other specifications. You can also include contact information like your name, phone number and email.  Have an area on the poster to fill in a few things last minute, such as – Date your dog went missing, Street and city where dog was last seen, description of collar, is your dog dragging a leash or tie out.  If your dog is very shy or has any behavior issues.

 

We suggest not putting your dog’s name on the posters and you may want to include – Do not chase, please contact owner. Why?  Some people may want your dog, so let’s not have your dog go to them by name and if your dog is frightened, having people chase after him will make them more frightened.  It is better to have people contact you with a sighting so you can go and calmly find your dog.

If this dog was adopted – contact the shelter you adopted from.  Many shelters do adopt with microchips and they may be contacted if the dog is found.

 

When your pet runs off 

Step 1 – Calm yourself and Start your search immediately.

The sooner you start searching, the sooner you will find him. You will have a better chance of finding your pet in the first 12 hours. As a matter of fact, some experts say that almost 90% of dogs are found if the dog owner searches right away. Thoroughly check every hiding place in and around your home, bushes, garages, sheds, under porches, etc.  Many pets never leave their owner’s property.

Make sure to have every person searching carrying a leash, just in case.

Bring smelly favorite treats or hot dogs to lure them close.  Also, treats in a can make a lot of noise when shaken and may be heard far and wide.

Invisible Fences

If your pet bolted after something or was chased through your invisible fence, turn it OFF.  This way he can come back in without being zapped.  Never leave any pet unsupervised in an area that only has invisible fence.  It is too easy for someone to steal a pet or another animal (wildlife, too) to come and harm your pet.

 

Step 2 –  Search Your Home First and Alert Your Neighbors

As soon as you think your dog is missing, search all around the house to make sure he is not hiding or sleeping in there. One dog was playing with his ball which rolled into the bathroom and as the dog was playing it went behind the door and the dog pushed the door closed as he was getting his ball!!

Next, alert your neighbors.  Neighbors are a good resource for helping you find your missing dog. Many times, dogs go visiting or your neighbor may have picked him up, or seen him run in a particular direction. Go door to door knocking on every door, and bring a decent picture along for those who may have not met your dog. Also, neighbors with dogs will attract your dog. Ask them to check garages, sheds, under porches.  If your dog became injured by a car or something, they may find a place to hide.

 

Step 3 –  Make Phone Calls, here is where all your research comes in handy

If you have searched in your neighborhood and asked neighbors, now the information you planned ahead for will come in handy. Contact your microchip company to make sure all of your information is up to date.  Call the local animal shelters, animal control agencies, rescue groups, the local police and veterinary offices. Give each of them a description of the dog, along with the dog’s name. Remember to file a lost dog report with every animal shelter within a 30 mile radius of your home (if given enough time dogs can get far, especially the Husky breeds or if they jumped into a car and a person was unaware, they may just let them out where ever when they notice).

I advise to go and visit the shelters as well, and bring photos of the dog. If your dog is missing for a while (I do hope not), visits at least once a week.  Why go and visit if you called and gave a description?  Because sometimes your description and another person’s description may be different.  What you may call brown another may call red.  Even photos can get color a bit off.  Seeing is the best.

 

Step 4 –  Advertise

Here is where your created Poster will come in handy.  Because you have it ready to go, you can print quickly and run to Staples and have a bunch printed up.  Create poster and/or flyers which will stand out. On the flyers, include your dog’s picture, name, breed, color, sex, weight, special markings and such other specifications. You can also include contact information like your name, phone number and email. You can post the flyers at grocery stores, dog parks, traffic intersections, grooming stores, community centers, pet supply stores, veterinary offices, and other locations.

 

Step 5 –  Use Social Media

You can post your lost dog flyer/poster on your social media account to try and get the word out quickly.  Instagram, Twitter and Facebook allow you to post your dog’s picture and spread the word to people you know and other dog lovers.

On Facebook, there are many Lost Pet groups as well.  Keep a list of where you post, so that you can give the good news when your pet is safe at home.  Everyone will want to know!!

 

Step 6 – Make the outside of your house or the last place your dog was seen familiar

Place a favorite blanket, crate, toy, something that has their scent.  You can place some smelly food in a bowl near the blanket or in a crate.

A wildlife cam can be helpful.  Aim it near the blanket and food and check frequently to see if there are any sightings.

Wildlife Cameras on Amazon

If you are thinking you want to use a trap.  The Concord SPCA rents out traps to use (call for more information).  They will have instructions for you as well.  Remember to never leave that trap unsupervised for very long.  It should be checked regularly, every few hours.  Once trapped, the trapped animal is vulnerable to harm of other animals and people.

 

Step 7 – Use maps

Keep careful documentation of all sightings.  Set out to put flyers in areas of each sighting.  All animals will cross roads, highways, ponds, rivers, etc to get to wherever they think they are going or away from whatever may be chasing them.

 

Step 8 – You see your dog

Once you see your dog, do everything to get him to come to you.  Do not chase him, he may panic and run into traffic or farther away.  Open your car door and say let’s go for a ride or whatever you say.  Shake the treat can.  Sit on the ground and toss treats out.  Try running in the opposite direction to see if he will chase you.

Step 9 – when you capture your dog

Check your dog over for any cuts, punctures. If you notices any trauma, bring to your vet now.  At home, Do not offer your dog alot of food and water.  If they have been stressed or gone for a few days or longer, giving them alot of water and food at once will just make them sick.  Offer a small amount of water and let them just rest.  If they are doing okay after a 15 minutes or so give them a second small portion of water.  If they look okay after a half hour or so, offer them 1/3 of their normal meal.  If they keep that down after an hour, go ahead and give them another third.

If it is morning, I would not give anything except water until dinner, if it is dinner, not until morning. If they seem fine by meal time, then give their regular meal.

I would suggest, taking to your vet, to get your pet completely checked over within the next few days.  Just to make sure that you have not missed anything and your veterinarian may see or find something with their expert eyes.

 

What To Do After Your Pet is Home

Step 1 –  Eliminate Opportunities in the Backyard

One of the most common ways a dog gets lost is when he escapes the yard. Try and close up any escape points in the yard. Make sure you do not have any holes in your yard fence or anywhere else that makes it easy for the dog to escape. Make sure there’s nothing against the fence that your dog can jump onto, and then over the yard fence.

Here is a tip for dogs who dig everywhere.  When you clean up the yard of dog waste, fill the holes that they have dug.  Put some dirt over that.  Dogs generally will not dig in that area again.  They may dig elsewhere and keep filling those holes with dog waste.  After a while, they do stop.  They may pick it up again later and just repeat.

 

Step 2 – Fence your yard if you only have Invisible Fence

Invisible Fence is great but it is only great if your dog does not see anything and bolt out or your dog is not chased out by another dog or bear or a person.  It does not PROTECT your dog.  So, fence your yard with a 6 foot fence or higher.  If you place that fence around the invisible fence, you can prevent your dog from digging under the fence!!  Using both fences will help keep your dog a bit safer.

 

Step 3 –  Make Your Home Welcoming and Comfortable

You should make your home a place your dog likes to be. You can make your home a fun and happy place by; regularly cleaning it, giving your dog a specific area that’s designated for them, playing with your dog regularly, and giving him treats regularly.

Exercise – giving your dog as much exercise as possible helps to wear off that energy.  Play ball or go for a walk.  Give them at least 30-60 minutes of fun exercise a day.  Giving your dog regular exercise helps curb boredom and those who think about escaping.

What if I do not have the time?  We all lead busy lives.  Have you thought of hiring a pet sitter?  Professional Pet Sitting Etc can come to your home every day while you are at work. We can play ball with them, go for a walk and break up the long boring days.  We have lots of different lengths of time to fit most budgets.

 

Step 4 –  Train Your Dog

Dogs with formal obedience training are less likely to go missing. An obedience trained dog is much more likely to stop on command and come back when called, rather than running off. In addition to this, obedience training gives both the dog and the owner more things to do together, thus the dog is much less likely to wander off out of boredom.

Simply said, training your dog gives you both a platform of communication.  It gives boundaries and your dog respects those boundaries when they understand them. It also increases the quality of the relationship when you both understand one another.

We hope that this article was informative and helpful to you.  We want all pets to stay safe and happy.

 

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About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

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Ricky – My Soul Kitty

Ricky, Black & White kitty

Ricky, nice and clean after a bath and blow dry
September 13, 2015

Ricky

February 6, 2002 – May 8, 2017

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Have you ever had that one pet in your life you connected to so completely, you just knew what they wanted,  how they felt and they knew all about you?  You love all your animals but if you are lucky to have that special one, it is a profound experience.

I call them soul pets.  Ricky was mine and this is his story.

 

April 10, 2002

One very cold April morning in 2002, I received a call from Joan, one of my pet sitters, who also was the Animal Control Officer for Hollis/Brookline.  A woman was hospitalized and a neighbor/friend who was to feed her cats reported a hoarding situation. She had mentioned at least a dozen cats were in a mobile home with no heat, water or electricity.  The ACO knew I had rescue experience and wanted me to go with her to assess the situation.

When we arrived at the mobile home in Brookline, we will call Hennessey House.  The outside of the home and yard looked un-kept for a long time.  The neighbor had told us, the door was unlocked.  We had brought a 25 pound bag of dry cat food and a few gallons of water.  As soon as we went to the front door, we could see all the cats running to the door.  Afraid they would get out if we opened the door, Joan stayed there while I went to the side door to sneak in with the food.  I, quietly and quickly entered the home.  As I came in, the overwhelming smell of urine and feces overtook me.  I tore open the bag of food and the cats just poured into the room.  There were definitely more than 12 cats.  As it turned out, there were 30 adult cats and kittens!

One tiny, black and white kitten, covered in a black substance all over his face and eyes, preventing him from seeing, came running to the sound of my voice calling the cats to eat.  He was tiny but very hungry and got into the bag to eat as best he could through the wall of cats and kittens. Whatever was on this kitten, seemed to be on other cats as well. We thought that it was something from in the home.

This was my first meeting of Ricky, Spanky and Lulu (Spanky and Lulu were around 6 months old and will have their own stories but the beginning will be similar). While the cats were eating, Joan came through the front door and we further inspected the house.  We found a litter of a few day old kittens on a mound of soiled clothes on the floor of a closet.  Everything including walls, floors, counters, sinks, cabinets were covered in dirt, urine and feces.  The back room had a couch, and behind the couch was a mound that was a few feet high of feces, just about level with the back of the couch.  The cats tried to use that area for a bathroom as long as they could until it was over full.

We made arrangements to transport all the cats to The Animal Rescue League of NH in Bedford.  A few litters were too young and went to foster homes, the nursing kittens went with their moms.  I took in Ricky, Spanky, Lulu and fostered 3 orange tiger kittens (the 3 orange kittens were adopted through the shelter very quickly).  These 3 kittens seemed to be from the same litter as Ricky, looking at size, age and the way they stayed close to one another.

I had planned on keeping Spanky because he was so afraid of people and I knew that he would not do well in the shelter.  I had planned on keeping Lulu, since we thought she may be a littermate of Spanky and she was overly friendly.  In my experience, pairing a frightened animal with a friendly, helped the frightened animal overcome immensely.  I decided to foster the 4 kittens, including Ricky and then place them up for adoption.  I knew that being kittens they would find homes quickly.

Once all of the cats and kittens had been removed, the mobile home was declared condemned and it was soon removed and destroyed.

Looking back after all these years, I wish that every cat we rescued from Hennessey House, was monitored throughout their lives.  That all the adoptive owners were able to stay in contact with one another and learn from each other.  Since these cats were all most likely related and in-bred, they probably had many of the same issues and ailments.  What one owner may have found in one of these adopted cats/kittens may have helped other owners, instead of each starting from square one.  My advice to animal welfare rescuers, is that families of a group of related adopted animals, should be kept in a group to chat and learn from one another.  I, so wish that I was able to learn and know about the other 30 cats and kittens that were related to my Ricky, Lulu and Spanky.

Well, this is where Ricky’s life with me begins.  Before Ricky and everyone, could come home with me, I brought them to the vet to be checked out. We estimated the four kittens were about 8 weeks old, so gave them a birth date of February 6, 2002.  All (Lulu, Spanky & three orange kittens) were deemed healthy with no problems,  Ricky was an unknown. No one was really sure what was all over him.  The substance was black and thick, completely covering his eyes, ears, and all over his feet and chest.  The vet had never seen anything like it. We ascertained that it was yeast but not really sure why he had so much of it or what was causing it.   I was told he may have distemper, he may be blind, he may not live long, they did not know.  The black yeast had blocked his tear ducts, so I went home with some eye ointment because he was suffering from dry eye and gave Ricky his first bath! After learning all of that about Ricky, I knew no one would want a kitten with so many uncertainties with health.  So, I decided he would remain with me as well. I have NEVER regretted this decision once. We became close very fast.

rescue kitties

Ricky a few weeks after his rescue (and a bath) with his 3 orange siblings and Lulu in the front. Lulu became their surrogate Mom

As time went on Ricky ate, grew and seemed healthy except for the yeast.  We went to a new doctor, who also had no idea what was going on with him.   At this appointment, Ricky was found to have an umbilical hernia and a mild heart murmur.  Ricky seemed to be doing well otherwise, so he was given his first set of vaccines.  He was also tested for feline leukemia and FIV and was found negative.

This black yeast was horrible for Ricky and I. It collected around his nose, mouth, eyes and in his ears.  As he washed himself, it would stain his two front legs, chest and under his chin.  I had to bathe him every few weeks just to keep up with it.  Ricky was ALWAYS so good.  He hated it as much as I did, but he stood in the sink and let me wash and scrub.  That black yeast was nasty.  It even stained the wash cloths I used. It gave him a perpetual look of dirtiness, even after a bath.  Almost every picture I have he looks dirty (but I love him to the moon and back anyway). Oh, and the feel of his fur was like a wire haired fox terrier, very coarse.  Another thing that no one knew why it was.  Over the years, his fur did become softer but no one ever was able to tell me what caused the coarseness.

rescue kitties

Ricky a few weeks after his rescue (and a bath) with his 3 orange siblings and Lulu in back. Lulu became their surrogate Mom

One thing I was asked a lot was if he scratched a lot, because yeast skin infections are generally itchy.  I really never saw him scratch, either with his feet or really gnawing on his skin, like I had had seen some cats do.  If he was bothered, he would pull at his fur with his mouth, plucking out tufts.  He did not do this often but when he did, I assumed it was a bit uncomfortable and would give him a bath, which seemed to stop his pulling.

As Ricky settled into his new life, he and I spent almost every minute together.  Ricky and I grew inseparable.  He followed me everywhere, was in my lap while I was in the office working, with me watching TV, sleeping with me at night.  He was never very far from me.  Ricky taught me about the I love you eyes.  He would look at me straight in the eye and then half close them, then slowly close them all the way and slowly open.  I would do the same back to him.  This was our greeting every time we looked at each other.  It became automatic.  When he purred, it was very, very low.  You really had to listen to hear it.  No matter what I had to do with him, giving a bath, pilling, nail clips, anything, he was always patient with me, let me do whatever and would purr and knead while I was doing it.  And he was that way with all of his medical treatments at the animal hospital as well.  He was a dream.

If I was sitting, he would settle on me so it was just right.  If I was laying down in bed, he curled up next to me just right.  I have many pets and they sit or curl up and you end up being a bit uncomfortable.  Ricky had a knack to always find the right way so it was always comfortable for both of us.  He was also a dream to carry, I would put him over my left shoulder and he would hold on just right.  He was my harness kitty.  We would put his harness on and go for a ride in the car.  He would sit in my lap looking out the window at everything going by.  Wherever we went, he was very comfortable, nothing ever scared, startled or made him stressed.  Ricky was just okay with everything.  He was such a good boy.

My daughter Rachelle named Ricky after Ricky Ricardo.  She was a Lucille Ball fan.  Later, he ended up with the nickname Ricola (pronounce rih-k-O-la, just like the cough drops!!).  No matter where Ricky was or what he was doing, if I called his name, he came running to me.

What was very interesting to me was that he was protective of me.  When we went to the animal hospital and he would be on my lap with his harness on.  He was always very calm.  If a dog came into the office and even looked towards me, he would just sit up, making sure he was always between me and that dog.  He would not do anything else, but stair down that dog.  He would not get upset, no crying, no fluffing up.  He was as calm as could be.  Just stared.  No dog challenged him Ever, they would just look away and never approached.

Over the next few months, we went to three other veterinarians who really had no answers for me.  I then started to see Dr. Anne Johnson, who owned the Classic Cat in Milford.  My Friend was working for her and thought she was amazing (I agree).  Dr. Anne was intrigued with Ricky.  She messaged a lot of veterinarians, trying to learn whatever she could about Ricky’s symptoms, but there was not much out there.

Black & White kitty

Ricky and Desilu playing

September 13, 2002

Dr. Anne suspected the yeast may have been due to allergies. So, we  drew some blood and sent it off for testing. We also tried Keratolux shampoo to help curb the yeast when bathing.  It really did not do much.  I did try just about every animal shampoo I could. None were very good.  Over time, the best thing to wash Ricky was just Dawn Dish soap and nail brushes to scrub his fur.

Well, the results for allergy testing  were enlightening.  It was found that Ricky was allergic to –

Black Ants, Dust mites, Cockroach, mold, maple and sycamore tree, grass (all kinds), yellow dock and cocklebur.

We started Ricky on allergy injections.  It seemed to help a little but was not the panacea I was hoping would eradicate the black yeast.

 

September 18, 2002

Ricky was neutered September 2002 and his umbilical hernia was also repaired.

One day, not long after he was neutered, Ricky was with my daughter, Rachelle and I in her room.  Ricky was laying on Rachelle’s bed and she was rubbing his belly as he lay on his back.  All of a sudden he just peed while he was on his back straight in the air! If we did not see what we saw, it would have been hilarious.  Poor thing, it was just blood.  So, off to the vet we went.  The vet was just astounded as she looked under the microscope.  She came in to tell me that she had never seen so many crystals in a cat’s urine.  Home with medications, and only canned food and lots of water. Ricky never had crystals again.

Black & White kitty

Ricky sleeping on my Christmas blanket

November 30, 2004

My friend at Dr. Anne’s, had been seeing Dr. Holub in Chelmsford, MA, for her greyhound (Dr. Anne only saw cats)and suggested I take Ricky there to see if he had any answers, since he was also a consulting veterinarian for Tufts University, studying and researching animal medicine. We decided that maybe, Dr. Holub may have some answers, so off we went.  Dr. Holub was a wealth of information.

Black & White kitty

Ricky on a bad allergy day

He told me that Ricky had Malassezia Pachydermatitis  –

Malassezia Dermatitis in CatsMalassezia pachydermatis is a yeast commonly found on the skin and ears of cats. However, an abnormal overgrowth of the yeast can cause dermatitis, or inflammation of the skin.

There is more information on this disease now.

There was very little back when Ricky was diagnosed.

Here is what I found today on it –

Pet Education – Malassezia

Veterinary Malassezia Treatment

Dr. Holub wanted to start Ricky on Ketoconizole and Atopica. This would bring the yeast under control. However, in just a few days on these medications, Ricky was not doing well and stopped eating all together. So, I stopped the medication. (Today, it is known that the above medications do not do well in most cats for this condition and the results I got with Ricky are common).

I, spoke with my regular veterinarian, Dr. Anne.  We decided to stay with the allergy direction and treat him symptomatically.  For the next few years, we Just gave him allergy injections and bathes.  Ricky was never 100% free of the black yeast but seemed healthy otherwise.  He was eating, happy, playing and he and I were totally in love.

Black & White kitty

Ricky laying out on mulch, not the best picture, not the best camera

October 17, 2008

When it was time to re-test his allergies, we added food allergies to the test.  The results were very interesting.  Most of the allergies he had before were  improved, however, he now had a whole bunch of new allergies. What this additionally revealed was that Ricky was allergic to beef and pork.  We continued allergy injections for the environmental stuff and I removed all beef and pork from his diet. This is the time I had to do alot of research on diet and nutrition for felines.

Here is my research for you  –

Feeding Cats by Gus Bennett

We tried a frozen raw diet, which seemed to be the best for allergies.  Ricky ate it at first and then really did not like it.  It was hard finding a food he would eat and was from a company that made sure each food was not contaminated with pork or beef.  I finally settled on Weruva Cats in the Kitchen Chicken Frickazee.  Ricky loved it and it seemed to be good for him.

After a while, Ricky did not seem to be doing any different,  with his new allergy injections, so, I chose to stop.  We wanted to see if Ricky got worse without the injections. He did not.  He was the same on or off the injections, so we decided to discontinue altogether.

Black & White kitty

Ricky having a bad allergy day

February, 20, 2009

Ricky and I were at, yet another vet appointment.  This time for a routine check.  Ricky was walking around the exam room, exploring.  I was watching him walk and noticed that his back legs would kick out as he walked.  I mentioned this to the doctor and we took him out to the hall to watch him really walk down the corridor.  The vet saw what I was talking about and then examined his back legs more.  The diagnosis was Luxating Patellas.

The patella, or “kneecap,” is normally located in a groove called the trochlear groove, found at the end of the femur. The term luxating means “out of place” or “dislocated”. Therefore, a luxating patella is a kneecap that ‘pops out’ or moves out of its normal location.

This was just another thing that vets had never seen in a cat.  It seems to be more known now.

Here are a few links on the subject –

Cornell on Luxating Patellas in Cats

VCA Hospitals on Luxating Patellas in Cats

Ricky had both back legs with this. Fortunately, it never got worse and never caused him any problems.  I did keep his weight pretty trim.  If he became overweight, he probably would have had a problem.

Black & White kitty

Ricky watching me take a photo

July 23, 2009

Ricky had his first full dentistry.  His teeth seemed to always be just fine but were now starting to build a little tartar.  They were cleaned and polished.

bathing kitty

Ricky getting his bath in the sink, he was soooo patient

2009 – 2012

For the next few years, we did routine blood work, check-ups, dentals, and his baths.  Ricky played with all the other kitties and he and I just grew closer.

Nothing really changed until Ricky turned 10.

Black & White kitty

Ricky drying off in the sun after a bath

June 25, 2012

We started to see Dr. Lisa Anderson of Milford Animal Hospital.  I had worked with Dr. Lisa many years ago at Hudson Animal Hospital.  It was great to see her.

Ricky started to look thin to me, even though he was eating well.  His blood work revealed he now had hyperthyroidism.  We treated him with felimazole for the next few years.

We also checked Lulu and Spanky since they were all related and found that Lulu was hyperthyroid and Spanky was normal.

Black & White kitty

Ricky sporting his harness, sitting and waiting at the vets office, taken by a vet tech there

2012 – 2015

Ricky did well on the felimazole for his thyroid.  We were on a normal routine, just enjoying one another.  He is such a good boy.

Did I mention how much I love him?

kitties looking out the window

Ricky and Gus Bennett looking out the window on a sunny morning

One day, Ricky and I were on our way home from the animal hospital for yet another appointment, nothing new, just routine.  Ricky seemed a little anxious and would not settle down.  As I am driving he just looked up at me, while on my lap, positioned his butt so it was pointing to the floor of the truck and peed!!! Poor guy, he did the best he could to not get it on me! I have to say, I have never had a cat do that.  Oh, the Ricky memories!

Black & White kitty

Poor Merlin, he always let Ricky have his bed

In spite of his very dirty start in life, Ricky was always really good about going in the litter box.  His only thing was he never, ever covered anything up.  He tried, but always scraped the side of the litterbox with his foot to cover, instead of the litter.  He never figured out that scraping the side of the litterbox did not cover anything up.  Maybe he did not like the feel of the litter and preferred the smooth side of the litterbox, we will never know.

Black & White kitty

Ricky and Spanky closing in on two turkeys having a fight with the fence in between them

October 29, 2015

I knew that everything Ricky had been through may shorten his life and having hyperthyroidism would shorten it more.  I wanted him to have the opportunity to live as long as possible, so I did some research. My friend  had been through Radiocat with one of her cats and was happy with the results.  I decided to go to Radiocat (in Massachusetts), with Ricky, to give him radiation to cure his hyperthyroidism. Ricky went through with flying colors.  The hardest part was leaving him at the hospital for 3 days, since he and I had never been separated for more then a few hours.

In his follow up blood work, after radiation, he was in all the normal ranges for everything, except one thing. Since, hyperthyroidism can mask kidney disease, we were concerned about that.  His tests did show he was just over the line, out of the normal range, which meant that Ricky now had the beginning stage of kidney disease.

multiple kitties

Ricky and Desilu looking at the camera, sitting on the fire pit. My kitties go out in my yard that has cat fencing to keep them safe.

September 16, 2016

Ricky seemed to be unusually  itchy, so we had a visit with Dr. Lisa, who suggested, we try him on Apoquel.  Dr. Lisa said she had seen some great results in cats.  However, it did not seem to do anything for Ricky.

At this visit, we also did blood work. The results came back that his kidney disease had gotten worse.  She wanted us to give him 100 ml Sub-Q fluids once a week.  The extra fluids will help the kidneys flush out toxins from the body, most cats do not drink enough to be able to do this.  If the toxins build up, cats will become nauseous and stop eating. I had been down this road before with other cats.  Kidney disease is not fun, seeing them go downhill.  I am feeling like I am losing my Ricky. It seems that once we cure one thing, something else goes wrong.

Black & White kitty

Ricky on the back of the couch

Sub-Q fluids are generally easy, given just under the skin.  Warmed up, most cats do not seem bothered by them. However, Ricky refused this treatment.  My Ricky who let anyone do anything to him, became very agitated, uncooperative and impatient.  It was when he tried to bite us as we were trying to give him fluids, that I said enough.  I am not going to do this if it upset him that much. So, I increased the water in his food.  However, this became a fine line.  If I gave him too much water with his food, he ate less.  If he ate less, he did not gain weight. If I gave less water, it would create nausea and he would eat less. Ugggh….

Black & White kitty

Ricky cuddling with me

January 9, 2017

Everything seemed good for a while.  His appetite was great at 6 ounces with 1/2 cup of water in am and then again in pm.  Twice what my other cats were eating.  Hoping he would add a few pounds.  For the next few months Ricky seemed to be doing well, he gained a little more weight.  He was running and playing.  Then he started looking thin to me again and I was noticing some loose stool.  I added some pumpkin and that seemed to work for a week or so.  Then back to loose stool.  A trip to the vet and we started on Prednisalone and B12.  Dr. Lisa was suspecting IBD.  We know that Prednisalone in cats can work miracles (maybe it will help with that nasty yeast, too).

Since weight loss is a big indicator of something going on with Ricky and I needed to monitor his weight,  I decided to buy a good scale to keep track of his weight.

I found a perfect one on Amazon –

My Scale on Amazon

Black & White kitty

Ricky giving me his I love you eyes!!

February 6, 2017

Ricky celebrated his 15th birthday

Black & White kitty

Feeding Ricky cut up Chicken and green beans to keep his weight up, still had his shaved belly from the ultrasound

February 24, 2017

Ricky did not seem to be gaining weight and his stools were very loose.  We took Ricky in for an ultrasound.  Findings were the intestinal walls were thick, indicating possible IBD but could not rule out cancer (cancer!!! Absolutely not, I could not even think of that).  Prednisolone was increased.  Stools went back to normal.  He did go down to 6 pounds 13 ounces, so we started feeding him 3 times per day. He was eating a total of 15 ounces of food with added water a day!  He still had a great appetite and the prednisalone was helping with that. We got him back up to 8 pounds 4 ounces!! This was promising.

Black & White kitty

Ricky on the back of the couch

On our way home from the ultrasound, my daughter was driving and Ricky was in my lap. He all of a sudden became antsy again.  He quickly went from my lap to Rachelle to mine and then Rachelle again.  I said he must have to go to the bathroom, so I grabbed a towel and told Ricky come here as I patted the towel, He looked at me, came to my lap, squatted on the towel and peed!  Poor guy, he was always sooo good and yes, he and I just knew what the other was thinking!!

As time went on, Everything seemed good. Ricky was eating, stools were normal, he was playing and being my lovable Ricky.

Black & White kitty

Ricky taking a nap on the down comforter
April 30, 2017

April 21, 2017

While we were cuddling, I noticed Ricky was breathing more rapidly than the other kitties while resting.  We went into the vet that morning, I was worried he may have fluid around his heart or building up in his lungs.  We took an x-ray and my heart sank.  The possibility of cancer was now confirmed.  It was most likely Lymphoma Cancer and had spread from his intestines, to liver to lungs. His liver was twice the normal size and his lungs looked like a white speckled mess throughout. I was devastated.  We started him on a compounded cytoxin drug, that slows down cancer cell growth.

As long as he looked comfortable, was eating and drinking, I will let him tell me how long we will go.  Ricky was a huge part of my life.  He was the first thing I saw every morning, he was with me almost every minute of the day and the last thing I saw before falling asleep. This was very hard to see my precious boy going downhill.  I was having a hard time just imagining my life without him.

Black & White kitty

Ricky and me
May 3, 2017

May 3, 2017

We scheduled a photography session, however, I do not think Ricky enjoyed it.  He kept his eyes closed like he really did not want his picture taken.  Maybe he was not feeling well.

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky
May 3, 2017

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky not cooperating for the photographer, keeping his eyes closed for most of the time
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky not cooperating for the photographer, keeping his eyes closed for most of the time, doesn’t he look like he is smirking !!
May 3, 2017

 

Ricky opened his eyes a bit as if to say, can we get this over with.
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

two kitties

Gus Bennett photobombing Ricky
May 3, 2017

 

 

two kitties

Katniss photobombing Ricky
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Linus photobombing Ricky
May 3, 2017

 

 

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Ricky
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky and me
May 3, 2017

 

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky and me
He was not in a picture mood!
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky and me
May 3, 2017

 

 

Black & White kitty

Ricky and me
May 3, 2017

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 5, 2017

Then Ricky stopped eating on his own. I did syringe feed him.  He seemed to be okay with that and ate everything I slowly squirted in his mouth. He seemed to be more comfortable eating with his head up, rather than down to eat out of his dish.

 

May 8, 2017

Ricky did not come to lay with me this morning while I drank my coffee.  I searched for him to be with me that morning after I awoke.  When I found him, He told me with his eyes, that he was tired, uncomfortable and ready to go.  My heart shattered in a million pieces.

I said good bye to my beautiful boy on May 8, 2017 in the late afternoon.  As I stroked his lifeless body, I realized that his fur was the softest it had ever been. I am so very grateful to have had this most amazing cat in my life.  To have experienced such a profound love with this special boy. I have never been so unbelievably connected to another living soul.  My life will never be the same and will be very empty without him.

Heaven for me will be reuniting with my precious Ricky again.

Black & White kitty

Ricky sleeping next to me

May 29, 2017 – Memorial Day

I woke up with the memory of a very special visit in my dream.

Some may not believe that loved ones send messages after they are gone, but having had many messages from lost loved ones over the years, I am a true believer.

Ricky appeared in my dream, there was nothing in the surroundings, It was just me and him.  He was looking up at me and I looked down at him.  It was very brief.  His fur was glistening, the white was pure snow white and the black was silky black. He looked incredible, no stains.  He was youthful looking, his eyes were bright, his face was smiling and so full of love. He was the most beautiful thing, I had ever seen.  He had a light surrounding him, very angelic.  He let me know that he was safe, happy and healthy.  He had no pain, no disease.  Then he gave me his “I love you” eyes, I gave them back and I woke up.

Thank you my precious boy for the best gift of my life. I love you.

 

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About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

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Professional Pet Sitting Etc July 2017 Newsletter

grey kitten with us flag

Happy Independence Day from All of Us at Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Pet News

 July 2017

Pet Newsletter

Click Here to view

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In This Issue – 

Happy Independence Day!!

5 Tips for Taking your Dog on Vacation

What You Need to Know About Your Pet and Summer Heat

8 Awesome Apps for Pet owners

The Ultimate Masters of Camouflage

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

 

 

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on “New Client” to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

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Chicken Care Basics

Three chickens in the yard pecking crumbs of bread.

Chickens in your yard also eat a TON of bugs , including ticks and spiders

Keeping Chickens In Your Back Yard

  Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

 

Keeping chickens is not only fun for you and your kids, but also an excellent way of turning waste into food. Your hens will provide you with eggs, and the process of raising chickens can be a fulfilling and entertaining hobby. Keeping chickens can be very easy with the right knowledge, setup and equipment. In this article, we are going to share with you how to go about keeping chickens in your back yard.

Before doing anything, make sure to check with your town hall.  Many cities and towns have strict ordinances about farm animals.  So, make sure that your town allows you to keep them in your area.

Housing

Chickens require a secure, clean and comfortable coop to rest and nest in. They need proper protection from the extreme weather, vermin and predators like foxes, bears, bobcats, dogs and cats. Unless you have prior experience building structures, you should consider buying a chicken coop. A proper coop is vital for your chicken’s health, therefore buy a coop that’s built by professionals. To set up the chicken coop, you will need to allocate adequate space in your backyard or garden based on the number of birds you intend to keep. Set the coop in a location where they can wake up to sunlight, but is safe from predators. The coop’s flooring can be covered with wood shavings, chopped cardboard or straw. Remember to make space for water and food in the coop.

Provide a run

Chickens generally require adequate space to safely run outside of their coop. Provide your birds with a well fenced area where they can get plenty of exercise and sunshine. You’ll need a run that’s at least 4 sq ft per chicken. Make sure the run is secure from predators, and is free of gaps and cracks where your chickens could slip through.

Provide a good roost

A roost is basically an area that’s 2 ft off the ground. You can use a wide plank or bar as your roost. The roost is very important to chickens, since it allows them to sit off the ground. It also helps protect them when the floor or ground is wet.

Provide a nesting area

Chickens require a nest where they can lay eggs. You can have several boxes all around the coop. The nest boxes should be large enough for the chickens to comfortably fit inside. You can mount the nest boxes on the cool side of chicken coop about a few feet off the floor/ground. Allow a nest box for every chicken. The nest’s bedding material can be straw or shavings, and should always be kept dry and clean. When the bedding material in the nest boxes becomes soiled with broken eggs or feces, you should pull out the soiled or wet parts, and then put in some fresh bedding materials. This will help keep your birds laying in the boxes, as well as making it easier to clean the eggs.

Coop Cleaning

Coops should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized at least twice a year (or more). Make sure you remove everything from the chicken coop (including chickens), and then thoroughly wash down all of the surfaces with 1 part bleach to 10 parts of clean water. Rinse thoroughly and let dry.  Once dry, everything can be replaced.

Feeding

Chickens just like other animals require a well balanced diet. There are feeds which have been created which contain the right balance of nutrients, minerals and vitamins. If you want your birds to stay healthy and produce quality eggs, it’s best to feed them the specially formulated chicken feeds. They’re available as powdered mash or as pellets. A single chicken normally eats about 1/2 a cup of feed each day. Always measure out enough feed for your chickens, and then place it in the feeder. Ensure the feed you buy is suitable for the type of chickens you have. The feed manufacturers normally label their products accordingly; that is, suitable for layers, chickens or growers.

That said, it’s important to note that chickens need a variety of foods so as to produce quality and great tasting eggs. The best way of achieving this is by supplementing the feed with your kitchen food scraps. The food scraps provide adequate minerals and vitamins which are necessary for the chickens health. Leftover grains, fruits and vegetables are perfect for your chickens’ health.

Most kitchen food scraps are safe for chickens, however, there are some foods which shouldn’t be feed to chickens. Never feed your chicken raw potatoes, chocolate, rotting food, avocado, rhubarb, dried beans, peanuts, tomatoes, raw meat, coffee, and pepper.

You can also provide grit which aids in digestion and providing your birds with extra calcium. You can purchase grit online or even at your local livestock store.

Fresh Water

You should provide your birds with fresh, clean water at all times. Make sure the water container is free of debris and full of water whenever you happen to check on your birds. Add fresh water as needed, or replace any water that has been contaminated.

Collecting Eggs

You should collect eggs on a daily basis (preferably in the afternoon). Leaving the eggs in the nest boxes for a long period of time increases the risk of the birds damaging them and the eggs can also lose their freshness. If you find any broken eggs, you should immediately remove any egg shells and yolk. If there is any feces in the boxes, you should clean it out and replace the bedding material.

Cleaning Eggs

Eggs can at times be very dirty and should be cleaned. Do not use cold running water, instead wipe the eggs with a dry cloth. If the eggs have muck, you can use a warm wet cloth, a dry steel wool or even fine sandpaper.

Storing Eggs

Once you have collected and cleaned the eggs, it’s time to store them. Package the eggs in cartons, and put them in a refrigerator. Fresh eggs do not have to be stored in a refrigerator, but they’ll last much longer this way. When packaging, place the eggs with the pointy ends down and the blunt ends up. Remember to write down the collection date so that you know the actual age of each egg.

Some Precautions

-Always keep your chickens safe from vermin and predators. A solid fence outside your chickens’ coop can help keep your birds safe.

-Sweep the coop on a daily basis, and keep any leftover food off the floor/ground.
-Roosters are generally loud, so keep this in mind if you’ve neighbors nearby.
-Remove any sick chicken from the rest of flock, and talk to your vet.
-Treat your chickens as needed for pests like fleas, mites, and lice.

 

Happy Chicken Owning and fresh eggs for everyone!!

 

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on New Client to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

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This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author and Owner.

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Guinea Pig Basics

Guinea Pigs in a row, isolated on white

Guinea Pigs come in a variety of colors!!

Would You Consider A Guinea Pig ?

Author, Dorinne Whynott, Owner of Professional Pet Sitting Etc.

 

Guinea pigs, also known as cavies, are affectionate, social, gentle, and intelligent species which are easy to keep and often bond well with their owners. They’re popular pets especially for families because of their great temperaments. In this article, we are going to discuss how to properly care for a guinea pig as a pet, here are our Guinea Pig Basics.

Housing

Guinea pigs need a large predator proof cage, somewhere inside your home. For one guinea pig, the cage should have a space of no less than 7.5 sq ft, or 10.5 sq ft for 2 guinea pigs. However, a bigger cage is always better if you’ve enough space. The cage should have a solid bottom to protect your guinea pig’s fragile feet. Guinea pigs generally love hiding, so you can provide enrichment by placing things like cardboard houses, hide away castles, hay nests, and plastic tunnel pipes in the cage.

Bedding

Guinea pigs normally use the bathroom wherever and whenever they please so you will need bedding material that’s absorbent but does not cause any harm. The safest and best type of bedding is dust free hay or shredded paper. Don’t use softwood shavings like cedar or pine because their oils can be very unhealthy for the pet’s lungs.
Cage Placement

You need to find a safe location for your pet’s cage. You can place it where there’s high traffic, but not in direct sunlight. They must be placed in a draft free area. The best temperature range for guinea pigs to be comfortable is approximately 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Guinea pigs should be housed away from wood stoves, fireplaces and heating vents.

Cage Cleaning

Guinea pigs are relatively clean, so you should try to clean the cage from any soiled bedding daily. Remove the droppings, any uneaten food and scrap all the mess from the bottom of the cage. Thoroughly clean the cage, the water bottle, and replace the hay and shredded papers. The frequency of cleaning the cage generally depends on the type of bedding material used, and the number of guinea pigs you’ve got.

Feeding

High quality, fresh, dust free Timothy hay should always be available for the guinea pig to eat. Timothy hay maintains a healthy digestion while helping wear down the guinea pig’s teeth, thus preventing them from over growing, or getting misaligned and becoming uncomfortable or painful. Lack of good quality hay can actually lead to malocclusion and GI Stasis. Alfalfa hay should only be given as a treat.

Fresh Food

You can also feed your guinea pig fresh fruits and vegetables occasionally. Fruits and vegetables should make about 25% of the guinea pig’s diet. Fruits and vegetables which are good for your guinea pig include; apples, corn, carrots, green lettuce, zucchini, celery leaves, spinach, melons, papaya, grapefruit rinds, broccoli, kale, cucumber, carrots, parsley and tomatoes. Vegetables to avoid feeding your guinea pig include; iceberg lettuce, beet greens, potatoes, red leaves, rocket salads, cauliflower, and radishes. Also don’t feed caffeine, chocolate or alcohol as they can cause very serious medical conditions.

Fresh Clean Water

One of the most crucial elements of caring for a guinea pig is providing it with fresh, clean water at all times. You can provide water by using a clean water bottle that can be attached to the side of the cage. Another method is putting a water bowl in the cage. Remember to always keep your guinea pig’s water bottle or bowl clean and change the water on a daily basis.

Grooming

Grooming is an important part of the routine care of guinea pigs. That said, you should know that guinea pigs generally stay clean and rarely require baths. However, if you have to bathe you pet, it’s recommended you wash them gently with warm, clean water. Avoid getting water in your cavy’s ears, and gently dry your pet after bathing.

Brushing

It is recommended to regularly brush your guinea pig’s coat so as to remove any loose hairs, and lessen shedding. You can use a small, soft brush. When brushing your guinea pig, you can check for problems like sores and lice on the skin. The frequency of brushing will depend on just how long the guinea pig’s fur is, and whether he/she is shedding. Consult a vet or a groomer for advice on proper hair trimming if there is excessive hair or matting.

Nail Trimming

When the nails become too long, they should be trimmed. If you do not trim long nails, they will develop a retro curl which can dig painfully into your pet’s pads, causing twisting of paw bones. To avoid this, nail trimming should be done every few weeks. An ordinary nail clipper will work. Avoid cutting into the fleshy part of the nails; shine an additional light source (like a flashlight) behind the nail so you can see the beginning of the living/fleshy part. If you’re unsure about how to go about trimming the nails, then it’s best to consult a veterinarian or a professional groomer.

Exercise and Entertainment

Provide your guinea pig with some floor time every day, where they can freely and safely wander, run and play. This exercise time is important to your guinea pig’s happiness and health. Since guinea pigs like foraging, you can also provide your pet with toys which hide treats. You can buy appropriate toys or you can even make your very own toys out of oatmeal containers, boxes and more. Remember to always keep a watchful eye on your guinea pig when playing outside of their enclosure.

Handling and Attention

Guinea pigs are very friendly, cuddly and enjoy being held once they have acclimated to their new surroundings. When picking up your guinea pig, you should always use both of your hands. Place one hand across the shoulders with the thumb tucked behind the pet’s shoulder and the fingers wrapped around his/her ribs. Hold gently, but tightly enough to be fully secure without squeezing, and then put the other hand underneath the pet’s hindquarters for extra support. Frequent handling is great to your guinea pig’s happiness. You can talk to your guinea pig, cuddle, carry, and pet him/her as often as possible.

 

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If you liked this article, check out our other articles – Complete List Of Our Article and Videos

About the Owner and Professional Pet Sitting Etc

Dorinne Whynott, is a long time animal professional.  She is a successful business owner establishing one of the largest pet sitting companies in New Hampshire since 1990. Click to Read her complete History. 

Professional Pet Sitting Etc. is a leading business in the pet care field and continues to grow since 1990. It is an AWARD WINNING business, having been awarded the 2015 Best Pet Sitting , 2015 Best Dog Walker, Business of the Year Awards in 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2010.  It boasts 30+ amazing pet sitters on staff, over 3000 clients in 38 cities from Nashua to Concord, NH.  Hundreds of satisfied client testimonials can be found on their website and more 5 star reviews on their Facebook pageGoogle+ page and more.  They have sustained an A+ rating with the BBB, A rating with Angie’s List and are unmatched in the Pet Sitting Industry in New Hampshire.

Click Here for Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews, Testimonial and Awards

Click For a Complete List of all of our educational Blogs

Go to Professional Pet Sitting Etc. Website for more information on the best pet sitting company or click on New Client to contact us or register for dog walking or pet care.

Contact us by phone at 603-888-8088

Email Profpetsit@aol.com

Pet Sitting NH , Pet Sitting Nashua NH , Pet Care NH, Petsitternh, Petsittersnh, Professional pet sitter, pet sitters, professional pet sitting, pet sitting, pet sitter, professional pet services, professional pet sitters, pro pet sitting, pet sit, pet, puppy sitting

cat sitting, cat sitter, cat sitters, professional cat sitter

dog, dog sitting,  professional dog sitter, Dog walking new hampshire, dog sitter, Dog Walking NH, dog walking services, Dog Walker, Dog Walker NH

Professional Pet Sitting Etc Reviews and Testimonials

All rights reserved, copyright 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

This article can not be copied in part or in whole without specific written permission by the Author and Owner.

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